- Queens, 8:45PM-10:15PM
- On my 9'6''.
- With Larry and Conrad, one guy out at the end.
- Nice conditions for a night session, with clear skies and light winds. Too bad there weren't many waves at all.
- Caught about 10 waves, with a couple of fun rights, but nothing to exciting. Much more exciting was the fireworks fired from boats right in front of us for 10 minutes. That was quite spectacular, and we all managed to catch waves while they were going on.
- Rainbows, 8AM-10AM
- On my 9'6''.
- With Eric. 4-5 people out including Mitch (!) and later Jim
- Nice glassy condition, but odd waves with many non-breakers. Super nice to be out though with the fantastic view and vibe.
- Caught about 15 waves, with 2 decent rights and one good left. Nothing spectacular, but being back in the water felt great.
- Flies, 11:45AM-1:30PM
- On my 9'6''.
- By myself. Met Larry, Rob, and Conrad in the water. Nobody else out.
- waist-high to chest-high, light winds, pretty consistent and surprisingly nice.
- Caught about 10 waves, with a couple of decent rights. My last wave was pretty outstanding, solid waist-high+ and all the way to the stairs. It has been a long time since I caught a wave that brought me so close to the stairs (which are in the process of being redone).
- Flies, 8:45AM-10:00AM
- On my 9'6''.
- By myself. Met Jim and Amy briefly in the line-up, then alone for 30 minutes, and then 2 girls and one guy out.
- Waist-high+, inconsistent, moderate winds.
- Caught 6 waves, the last one being a pseudo-decent right.
- Pretty disappointing condition given that there was a swell yesterday. Oh well. It's not by surfing once a month that one can hope to catch good waves. Didn't feel too out of shape, but my timing was off on the take-off for 2-3 waves. Got better toward the end.
- Flies, 8:45AM-10:00AM
- On my 9'6''.
- By myself. Jim out there, and between 3-4 people out.
- Waist-high to shoulder-high, not very consistent, light winds.
- Caught about 8 waves, with a couple of nice shoulder-high that ended up closing out but were fun drops. Caught one very good fully open wave halfway through the session.
- Pretty out of shape surfing-wise, but I didn't surf too poorly I guess.
- Beacons, 10AM-11:30AM
- On an 8'6''.
- With Dario. 10-15 people out.
- Waist-high+, not super clean not sort of consistent.
- Caught about 6-7 waves, with a couple of ok rights. On two chest-high lefts I was in an good position but this ripping local (long beard, dreads, etc.) just had the place wired and seemed to always be in the best position.
- Beacons, 10:30AM-12PM
- On an 8'6''.
- With Dario, Ari, and Jaime.
- Waist-high, not super clean and not very consistent.
- Caught about 10 waves, nothing special.
- One a decent right Jaime did his usual drop-in. Brought me back to old times riding right behind him on a Cali wave :)
- After the session, we hung out on the beach a bit, throwing rocks and lounging. Something I just never do but perhaps should once in a while.
- There was a sea lion in the line-up, but I never got a glimpse of him. A few dolphins outside the line-up.
- Flies, 9AM-10:15AM
- On my 9'6''.
- With Larry. Carl in the line-up along with two shortboarders and one bodyboarder. Saw Eric after his session right when we got to the spot.
- Waist- to chest-high, clean rights, long waits, light offshores.
- Caught 8 rights, essentially all of them great and lined up all the way to the stairs.
- Quite a nice first session after more than 2 months away from Hawai`i, and more than 3 months after my last session here.
- Flies, 5:45AM-7:30AM
- On my 9'6''.
- By myself. Eric showed up later. 3 shortboarders out, and 2 SUPs. one bodyboarder. Saw Eric after his session right when we
- Waist-high+, not super consistent, clean and glassy, weaker than yesterday.
- Caught about 10 waves, with a couple of decent rights. The power of the wave was nothing like yesterday, but still nice rides to be had.
- There was an helicopter hovering over the spot for 45 minutes, which was super annoying and killed the vibe. Turns out they were looking for a body as somebody jumped off into the ocean last night never to be seen again.
- Flies, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6''.
- With Larry. Met Jim, Patrick. 3 other people out.
- Waist-high, not consistent, not very clean.
- Caught about 10 waves, with one decent right. Pretty unremarkable otherwise. one bodyboarder. Saw Eric after his session right when we
- Flies, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6''.
- By myself. Alone for 10 minutes and with an SUP for the most part of the session. 6 people when I got out.
- Waist-high+, not very clear but reasonably consistent, moderate winds.
- Caught about 10 waves, with 2 excellent rights lined-up all the way to the stairs. waves were closing out a bit, but those that remained open were really nice.
- Flies, 4:30PM-6PM
- On my 9'6''.
- With Dan. UP to 20 people out!
- Waist-high+, windy, not very clean.
- What a shock to go from essentially and empty line-up in the morning to what qualified as "really crowded" for Flies in the afternoon. We ended up surfing the lefts essentially, and I surfed extremely poorly, falling off on several take-offs.
- Caught essentially one good ride, but a pretty dismal session overall. Two sessions in the same day with sort of a back ache probably wasn't the greatest idea anyway. But this was Dan's first session in years and it was good to go out. I am now further comforted in the fact that surfing afternoons is not for me.
- Flies, 6AM-7:30AM
- On my 9'6''.
- By myself. Up to 5 people in the line-up, including Eric.
- Waist-high+, not consistent, light winds.
- Caught about 6-7 waves, with two decent lined-up rights in the midst of pretty sectiony waves.
- Long waits today, but nice conversation in the water.
- Flies, 8:45AM-10AM
- On my 9'6''.
- By myself. Eric and Jim in the line-up, 3 shortboarders on the inside.
- Waist-high+, inconsistent, light winds initially but pretty strong by the end of the session. Deteriorating conditions.
- Caught about 6-7 waves, with 3 pretty good rights. Toward the end of the session it got so inconsistent that I had to wait more than 20 minutes for my last wave. But that last wave was punchy, open, lined-up, and I kicked out right at the jetty. So no complaints really.
- Flies, 9AM-10AM
- On my 9'6''.
- By myself. Two other guys in the line-up.
- Knee- to waist-high, not consistent, light winds.
- Caught 10 waves. Pretty hard to catch and weak-looking, but surprisingly walling up quite well on the inside. Had 2-3 really fun rides in spite of the seemingly lame conditions.
- On the wave of the day, alone on the outside, I managed to take off and then on the bottom turn cut it too tight and face plant into the wall. Pretty sad, oh well.
- Flies, 9AM-10AM
- On my 9'6''.
- By myself. Carl out at first, and then Eric and Patrick. 3 shortboarders on the inside.
- Waist-high+, not consistent, moderate winds. A few nicer waves coming through once in a while, but oddly angled.
- Caught about 5 waves, including two decent ones, but nothing great.
- I really felt terribly sluggish and low on energy today, and didn't surf well. In particular, I failed to get into to nice waves that had shoulder-high peaks. Will be better next time I guess.
- Queens, 9PM-10:30PM
- On my 9'6''.
- With Larry and Conrad. Two other people out, and about 10 paddling out right before our last wave.
- knee- to waist-high, extremely inconsistent, glassy and beautiful weather.
- Caught perhaps 5 waves, and spent most of the session chatting with Larry.
- Flies, 9AM-10:A0PM
- On my 9'6''.
- With Larry. Nobody out.
- knee- to waist-high, pretty inconsistent but getting better as the tide dropped, moderate winds.
- Caught about 10 waves, including a couple of decent ones. The session was much better than was we expected after looking at it initially.