- Threes, 8AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6''.
- By myself. about 20 people out including Doug and Ron.
- Waist-high with some chest-high peaks. Clean but not very consistent, light winds.
- Caught about 10 waves, mostly insiders, all pretty nice.
- I had not surfed Threes in years, and I went there this morning after checking that Flies just wasn't working. I had forgotten what a long paddle that was, and after almost 2 months without surfing there, it definitely took a toll. Great to be out those.
- Canoes, 8:30PM-9:30PM
- On my 9'6''.
- With Larry, nobody out.
- Ankle-high, not consistent.
- Caught 3 "waves"
- Nobody out in spite of the almost full moon, but that's because there were no waves. Nice to be out though, just mellow, looking at the moon and chatting.
- Flies, 7:30AM-9AM
- On my 9'6''
- With Travis on my Takayama egg, 5-6 people out including Eric, Jim, and Patrick.
- Waist-high+, somewhat consistent early on, but not great toward the end.
- Caught something like 8 waves, including one really nice long right that went to the stairs.
- Unbelievable to think that my last session was Jan 23rd. That's more than 2 months ago. My first 2 take-offs were really lame and I felt I didn't know how to surf anymore, but then it got better. really noodly arms though! It was great being in the water with Travis. Last session with Travis was 4/3/2010 at the Cliffs in SD!!
- Flies, 4:30PM-6PM
- On my 9'6''
- With Larry and Rob, 4 other people out and then nobody out for the second half of the session.
- Waist-high+, not clean or consistent, tide still too high even though dropping.
- Caught about 10 waves, with a couple of decent rights, but the conditions were your typical too-high-tide Flies.
- One whale on the outside, 1 turtle on the outside and then on the inside.
- Threes, 7AM-8:20AM
- On my 9'6''
- With Travis. Up to 10 other people out including Ron, Clarence. Saw Jim on the beach as he was paddling in after breaking his leash.
- Waist-high+ with a few bigger sets, pretty clean and consistent. Typical Threes.
- Caught about 10 waves, with 2 really fun rights.
- Really nice session, nice vibe, clean waves for the most part. Typically Threes. Could have been a bit bigger, but after surfing so little for so long it was absolutely perfect for me.
- Diamond Head, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- With Geoff. At most 2-3 people out at our "break"
- Pretty lame conditions, with too high a tide given the swell size. Hardly breaking on the outside. Lower tide toward the end of the session, making waves easier to ride.
- Caught about 8 waves, with one decent right toward the end.
- Beautiful day in the water though.
- Chun's Reef, 11AM-12:30PM
- On my 9'6''
- With Dario on my 6'8'' Takayama Egg. About 20-25 people out.
- Waist-high+, not very consistent, but a few good waves.
- Caught a great right at some point, even though I had to weave my way around the people sitting on the inside. Otherwise only a few somewhat crappy rights/lefts. Beautiful day out there with great sights of the North Shore.
- First session after one month off and sinus surgery. Felt pretty weak in the water but not as bad as I thought.
- Sea turtles in the line-up.
- Threes, 9AM-11AM
- On my 9'6''
- With Dario on my 6'8'' Takayama Egg. About 30 people out.
- Head-high, pretty consistent and lined up. Moderate winds.
- Caught about 5 waves, with a great right just after getting to the line-up and another one halfway through the session.
- The crowd was a bit difficult to manage, especially being pretty out of shape, but overall a fun session. The paddle back was pretty exhausting though.
- Threes, 8AM-10AM
- On my 9'6''
- With Dario on my 9'2'' Stewart. About 15-20 people out.
- Waist-high with a few chest-high sets, pretty consistent and not as good as yesterday but still fun. The crowd was much less of a factor. Moderate winds
- Caught perhaps 10-12 waves, with only one really good right. Dario caught pretty fun lefts.
- Not feeling as tired as yesterday at all, which bodes well for the rest of Dario's stay on O`ahu.
- Chatted a little bit with a guy who used to live in San Diego and recognized my South Coast board (he used to have one there and loved it, surfing mostly Sunset Cliffs).
- The only "issue" was this SUPer who seemed to always get caught in the wave with his board parallel to the wave, thus having his massive board flying all over the place sometimes over the heads of other surfers. We tried to stay as far away from him as possible, but weren't always successful. At some point, I caught a pretty good left and he was standing on the inside, right in my line, with his board parallel to the wave, not moving at all. So I had to fade and stall for fear of hitting him, but he got caught by the wave and his board flew in the air and fell back really close to my board. Saw the same thing happen to others countless time. Sort of a menace out there...
- One sea turtle in the line-up.
- Flies, 7AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- With Dario on my 9'2'' Stewart. Up to 10 people out, but only 3-4 at the end of the session including Larry and Conrad.
- Waist- to occ. chest-high, not consistent with long lulls, moderate winds.
- Caught about 20-25 waves, with 3 pretty good rights. One one of the best sets of the day I pulled out to let a shortboarder drop in but he didn't make it and the wave went unridden. Oh well.
- Overall a pretty good session, but made longer by the fact that Larry showed up toward the end of it, and we stayed much longer so as to surf with him and give him a ride back.
- After the session, went to the Bagel shop in Kaka'ako, bought bagels with lox cream cheese, and went for breakfast to Larry's.
- Threes, 8AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- With Dario on my 9'2'' Stewart. around 10-15 other people out.
- Waist-high+, moderate winds, not very consistent but ok.
- Caught about 10 waves, with nothing really exciting to report. The angle of the swell made the wave rather sectiony (for Threes, that is).
- Queens, 8:30PM-10PM
- On my 9'6''
- With Dario on my 9'2'' Stewart and Larry. Nobody else out.
- Waist-high+, at most light winds, somewhat consistent, no moon.
- Caught about 10 waves, with a few really nice rights. It was a very fun/mellow/pleasant night surf session, all by ourselves, with waves that were definitely decent. Ate it on several too-late take-offs as visibility was not great without any moon out. Perfect way to conclude Dario's Hawaiian vacation.
- Queens, 8:30PM-10PM
- On my 9'6''
- With Larry, Dave, and Conrad. Nobody else out.
- Waist- to chest-high, consistent, clean, light winds at the end of the session but otherwise mostly glassy, nice moon out.
- Caught something like 15 waves, with at least 5 really good rights. Probably the best night surf conditions I've ever experienced, with really, really fun rides lined up all the way to the inside.
- One one long right, Dave and I shared the wave and got all the way to the inside, so far in in fact that we were in between coral heads that protruded from the surface. The waves were so good that we just tended to stay on them too long.
- Flies, 2:30PM-4PM
- On my 9'6''
- With Larry, Conrad, and Larry's niece and her best friend. About 6 other people out.
- Waist-high, not consistent, and very oddly shaped. Really hard to catch. Moderate winds.
- Caught 4-5 waves, with only a couple of decent ones. What odd conditions today really... oh well, at least I logged in one session for July :/
- Flies, 4:30PM-6PM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself. About 8 people out.
- Waist- to chest-high, not consistent, weird shapes, cross-swell.
- Caught 4-5 waves, with only a couple of them decent. Very strange conditions today, but at least I got wet in Honolulu before going off island for 3 months!
- Beacons, 7AM-8:30AM
- On an 8'6'' Becker.
- With Dario, Travis, and Jaime. About 15 people out.
- Waist-high+, glassy, not consistent, pretty weak. Really cold water by my standards, but it was good being in San Diego surfing again.
- Caught 4-5 waves, nothing exceptional.
- Beacons, 5PM-6:30PM
- On an 8'6'' Becker.
- With Dario and Ari. Starting at about 10 people out and up to 20 or so.
- Waist-high+, bumpy, more consistent that this morning but quite junky.
- Caught 4-5 waves again, with a couple of fun rights.
- Beacons, 9:30AM-11AM
- On an 8'6'' Becker.
- With Dario. Up to 20 people out.
- Waist-high+, bumpy, really junky, somewhat consistent.
- Caught about 10 waves, with 2 really fun rights, somehow, with fun take-offs.
- Talked a bit with a guy in the line-up about the differences between Honolulu and San Diego surfwise.
- Flies, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'6''
- With Guillaume. Carl, Eric, and an SUPer in the line-up
- Waist-high, not consistent, light winds.
- First session after 4+ months out of the water! Great to be back and to catch some waves. Even though my level of out-of-shapedness is absolutely ridiculous.
- Caught 4-5 waves, nothing special.
- Guillaume's first session ever, and he even stood up on his last wave.
- In-Betweens, 6:45AM-7:45AM
- On my 9'6''
- With Guillaume. Up to 8-10 people out.
- Waist-high, not consistent, light winds.
- After checking Flies, which wasn't breaking, went to in-betweens.
- Mellow crowd, inconsistent waves but a few sets.
- Caught 3-4 lefts.
- Beautiful sunrise on Diamond Head
- Guillaume caught and stood up on 3 waves, on his second session ever!
- Queens, 8:45PM-10PM
- On my 9'6''
- With Larry. Nobody out for 45min and then 3 others.
- Knee- to occ. Waist-high, not very consistent, super glassy with no wind, great visibility with full moon and few clouds.
- Caught about 10 waves, with a couple of fun ones but rather weak overall.
- As usual, great to be in the water at night, especially on such a calm and peaceful night.