- Tongs, 9:30AM
- 11AM
- On my 9'6''
- With Jannis. Between 5 and 15 other people out.
- Waist-high, inconsistent, glassy, pretty weak and many doubles.
- Caught 4-5 waves, mostly to deep in front of the reef, making for fun drops and super short rides.
- Sand Island, 4:30PM
- 5:30PM
- On my 9'6'', no leash
- By myself (Kate on the beach), one inflatable SUP out and one boogie boarder
- Knee-high, not consistent, weak, light winds, beautiful weather
- Caught a total of 4 waves, with one surprisingly decent right
- Amazing that I haven't surfed in so long (too much work, no waves, illness). Incredibly out of shape of course...that I haven't surfed in so long (too much work, no waves, illness). Incredibly out of shape of course...
- Flies, 9:30PM
- 11AM
- On my 9'2''
- With Nodari, 6-7 people out including Eric and Patrick
- waist- to chest-high, really inconsistent, light winds
- Caught only 2 waves, including a great right.
- Sand Island, 3PM-4PM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, 2-3 other people out.
- Waist-high, moderate winds, weakened by the tide
- Caught about 15 waves, nothing to report. slowly getting back in shape.
- Diamond Head, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- With Nodari. About 15 people at each peak.
- Waist-high, really inconsistent, light to moderate winds
- Caught 4-5 waves, nothing really great.
- Horribly out of paddling shape after not surfing for 2 months. Feet caught in leash twice. Never quite in the right place. The usual dues one pays for not getting wet.
- Diamond Head, 8AM-10AM
- On my 9'6''
- With Nodari. About 15 people at each peak.
- Waist- to head-high, somewhat consistent, no winds and glassy.
- Caught 3 waves, including one fantastic rights that was completely open with a nice vertical wall.
- Got lucky not to get stuck on the inside at all, unlike Nodari :)
- Totally sore from yesterday's session but somehow paddling much better than yesterday. But at the end of the session completely exhausted and incapable of paddling into a last wave. Caught some white to get back in.
- On a bigger wave I turtled, held my board, but somehow go pushed back and hit gently some other guy on a short board. His fins got caught in my rashgard, but no harm done...
- Sunset Cliffs, Sub, 1:30PM-2:30PM
- On Dario's 9'0
- With Dario. Nobody else out until the end of the session.
- Knee- to waist-high, messy and disorganized, but still rideable.
- Caught about 5 wave
- Beautiful day out there, and incredibly out of shape. But great to get back in the water.
- Sunset Cliffs, Abs, 1:30PM-2:30PM
- On Dario's 9'0
- With Dario. One guy out halfway through the session.
- Waist-high, decent, not very consistent.
- Botched almost all take-offs, in part due to the lack of wax on the board. Ended up surfing 3-4 waves out of something like 10 attempted. Pretty lame.
- Beautiful day out there!
- Tongs, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself. About 5-6 people out.
- Waist-high, windy, a bit disorganized and inconsistent.
- Caught about 5-6 waves, with 2 nice ones (all lefts of course).
- Felt like I was almost never in the right place this morning. I should really surf Tongs more often to get used to the line up.
- Flies, 8:30AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself and then with Eric. 1 or 2 other people out including Eric's daughter.
- Waist- to chest-high, windy, not consistent and disorganized, criss-crossing swells and winds, inconsistent, but still occasional nice ones coming through.
- Caught about 8-9 waves, with 2 very nice rights that stayed open all the way in.
- After about 1 hour in I decided to go in after a particularly good wave. I had been surprised to not see Eric out since his car was in the parking lot. Turns out his daughter was out but I didn't recognize her as I hadn't seen her in years. Right when I reached the top of the stairs I met Eric and decided to go back out for 1 hour so that we could catch up. Needless to say I was dead tired after 2 hours and ended up riding the white on the way in.
- Flies, 8:30AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself. about 10 people out including Eric and Tracy.
- Chest- to head-high, not very consistent or organized. Quite a bit of texture in the water making it difficult to get into waves. Moderate winds.
- Caught 2-3 waves, nothing too great but for one good right.
- At the end of the session Tracy's leash plug snapped and she had to swim all the way in. bummer.
- Flies, 8:15AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself. Eric and Tracy out and one other guy who I don't think could surf, so we add the spot to ourselves.
- Waist to chest-high, clean and semi-consistent, light winds, crapping out at the end of the session.
- Caught 6-7 waves, with 3 outstanding rights that remained open all the way in.
- Super fun conditions, nobody out, beautiful weather, can't really ask for much more.
- Flies, 6:45AM-8:15AM
- On my 9'2''
- By myself. 3 other people out including Jay.
- waist- to shoulder-high, with a few head-high+ sets, super glassy, no wind, beautiful weather, pretty consistent.
- Caught about 12 waves, with 4 or 5 outstanding rights that remained open all the way to the stairs.
- Great session to get back in the water after more than one month without surfing!
- In-betweens, 7:15AM-9AM
- On my 9'2''
- With Brad and Christina. between 4 and 10 other people out.
- waist-high, not consistent, odd (due to the Tsunami?), glassy.
- Caught about 5-6 waves, all lefts, nothing great and mostly closing out in the shallow insides.
- Flies, 7:15AM-8:45AM
- On my 9'2''
- With Brad and Christina. 2 other people out, Jay and Tracy.
- waist- to chest-high with a few bigger sets coming in. Not great due to the high tide, but decent.
- Caught 4-5 waves, and then basically couldn't paddle anymore. After a super long lull, ended up riding some white water back to shore.
- Wailupe, 4:30PM
- 5:30PM
- On Jaime's 9'0''?
- With Scott, paddling from Jaime's house during KC's birthday party, to check out the spot. Long paddle.
- waist- to chest-high, messy and windy. Didn't make it to the main peak. Caught 1 rights, got back to the line-up. noted that Scott had gone back to Jaime's house, and paddled back. Super tired, but that was a good workout with an awesome bbq afterwards.
- Tongs, 7:30AM
- 8:30AM
- On my 9'2''
- With Nodari, from 3 to 10 other people out.
- Knee- to waist-high, extremely inconsistent and weak
- Caught 2 waves and spent most of the time chasing waves that simply wouldn't break. Basically, the only consistent break was on the far inside where often the surf schools are.
- At least it was a beautiful weather.
- Flies, 6:45AM
- 8:45AM
- On my 9'2''
- By myself, 4-5 people out including Jay and Barton
- Waist- to head-high, not very consistent, quite a few close-outs, super glassy with no wind
- Caught 6-7 waves, with only one that was very good and lined-up. The others were fun take-offs but mostly close-outs. Chickened out on a beautiful one, stupidly
- Not super in shape since it seems I am on a "surf 3 times a month" roll...
- Flies, 6:45AM
- 8:45AM
- On my 9'2''
- With Nodari, 6-8 people out
- Waist- to chest-high, glassy, not very consistent
- Caught about 10 waves, with 2 great rights.
- Flies, 11AM-12:30PM
- On my 9'2''
- With Larry. Only other person out for most of the session was Tracy
- chest- to head-high+, mostly glassy, pretty consistent and lulls were welcome to paddled back out anyway
- Caught 6 waves, each of them with a super fun take-off and first section. Half of them stayed open nicely, those in the shoulder-high range.
- A few sets that where I would say up to 3ft overhead on the peak cam through, but they were almost all close-outs.
- Overall a great session, with only 2 friends out! Can't ask for much more.
- Flies, 8AM-9AM
- On my 9'2''
- By myself. Nobody out.
- Waist- to shoulder-high, inconsistent, mixed-up, pitching, strange and weird.
- Caught 6-7 waves, with 2 small ones that stayed open all the way in, while the bigger ones simply pitches and closed out.
- What weird conditions today, looking like a high-frequency swell was mixed up with an inconsistent ground swell. Waves were pitching a lot, causing me to eat it on my first take-off actually. Paddling back out, I took one of the head and actually hit the bottom. Couldn't believe it. I still don't know whether the waves this morning were powerful or weak. Oh well. At least it was beautiful weather, glassy, and nobody out, so can't complain too much.
- Flies, 9AM-10-30AM
- On my 9'2''
- With Nodari. 10+ people out.
- Chest- to shoulder-high, with a few head-high+ sets, glassy, consistent-ish, nicely lined up.
- Caught 8 waves, and they were _all_ lined up and beautiful, with enough of a first section to take a high line and bottom turn around the small closed-out section toward the inside. My next-to-last wave was absolutely outstanding, with a long peeling wall that reeled all the way to the inside. It seems that I was always in perfect position today in spite of the "crowd".
- Caught a small insider to close a really nice Flies session. El Nino is really wreaking havoc on the environment this winter, but I guess a selfish positive side of is is head-high waves on the South shore at the end of October.
- Flies, 7:15AM-8:15AM
- On my 9'2''
- With Nodari. one SUP-er out and Carl at the beginning of the session.
- Chest- to head-high+, glassy-ish, many close-outs, but a few nice smaller ones that stayed open
- Caught 4-5 waves, which were all nice for the most part, but we had to pick the right ones today...
- Got caught inside once after kicking out prematurely, but nothing too terrible even though it was a workout.
- Strangely, three SCUBA divers (one instructor and two novice divers I think) got in the water in spite of the swell! Definitely not a good day for them. They seemed really out of sorts, sitting in exactly the wrong spot and being hammered by close-out sets. Not sure what they were thinking. Most likely some dive company that didn't want to cancel the certification dive so that they wouldn't lose their money. It's true that they probably didn't expect head-high surf in October!
- Diamond Head, 4PM-5:15PM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, 20+ people out at each peak.
- Waist-high, choppy, inconsistent, beautiful sights.
- Caught 3 waves, with a decent right all the way to the inside.
- Back in the water after 1.5 month (wtf?). I really need to get back into going surfing regularly. I can't believe how lazy/busy I've become.