- Flies, 10:30AM-12PM
- On my 9'6'', no leash
- By myself. Nobody out at first, and then Eric showed up.
- Waist-high, smooth, really inconsistent with 15-min lulls.
- Caught 5-6 waves, with only one good one with a decent wall.
- Was great being back in the water, and great seeing Eric after such a long time!
- Flies, 9:30AM-11AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself. Up to 3 other people out, alone for a bit.
- Waist- to chest-high, inconsistent, oddly angled, tide a bit too high as expected, glassy.
- Caught 5-6 waves, with one really good right. There were a few bigger sets coming through but they either broke outside or were closing out.
- Saw Eric and Tracy out in the parking lot after the session, as they were getting to go out, thus benefiting from a lower tide but with more wind.
- Flies, 8AM-9:15AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, nobody out (bumped into Wendell and another guy as they were getting out of the water).
- Waist-high, very inconsistent, a bit bumpy due to the Kona winds.
- Caught 6 waves, nothing special.
- Very out of shape of course after 2 months out of the water!
- Flies, 8AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, nobody out for about 1 hour, and then only Carl out.
- waist-high+, inconsistent and sort of mixed up with many doubles.
- Caught 5 waves only, but each of them pretty nice, walling up no the inside.
- Flies, 9AM-11AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, Carl and Eric out for the first 1/2 hour, then about 1/2 hour by myself, and later Jim and Conrad.
- waist-high+, not very consistent, especially at the end, quite messy, light winds getting stronger as the session went on.
- Caught 10+ waves, with 2 or 3 really nice rights halfway through the session. The last 1/2 hour was blown out and I caught a tiny insider back to shore.
- Flies, 9AM-11AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, nobody out.
- waist-high+, not very consistent, moderate winds, pretty decent sets coming through.
- Caught 7-8 waves with a couple of good ones.
- Met Jay who was getting out of the water as I was getting in. Somebody had ripped off his backpack that he typically leaves on the rocks. From the line-up I saw him walk up and down the shore talking to some of the homeless that have established camp there, and amazingly at some point I saw him with his backpack back in his possession!
- Flies, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'2'' Morgan
- By myself, up to 20 people out.
- waist- to chest-high, with a few head-high close out sets, moderate winds, not consistent, getting worse as winds (sea breezes) and tide picked up.
- Caught 3 waves, nothing great.
- Obviously in terrible paddling shape after 2 months without surfing due to lack of waves, being sick, and being overworked.
- Flies, 8AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6'' (which is at the end of its life I am afraid)
- By myself for most of the session, and then a "kayaker" out at the end
- waist- to chest-high, not consistent but a few sets, light to moderate winds
- Caught 5-6 waves, with a couple of decent one including the last one after which I decided to call it a day; flying off to Europe for 2 months tomorrow, next session will be in San Diego!
- Flies, 4:30PM-5:30PM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself and alone out there
- Knee-high, inconsistent and weak
- Just a "get-back-in-the-water" session while Serge and his mom were taking a walk on the shore to Point Panic. Still did a fair amount of paddling and caught 4 "waves", thus slowly getting back into shape.
- Flies, 7AM-8:30AM
- On my 9'2''
- By myself, up to 6-7 other people out
- Waist-high, really inconsistent for the first hour, and then a bit better
- Caught 4-5 waves, with only 2 real waves.
- Diamond Head, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, up to 25 people out on the peak
- Waist-high, glassy, somewhat consistent
- After not surfing for months, not working out for months, and being constantly either sick or overworked, I took it easy and stayed on the inside of the main peak.
- Caught about 10 waves, all pretty smooth if small.
- Good way to attempt again to get back into surfing.
- Rockpiles, 11:30AM-1PM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, up to 25 people out on the peak
- Waist-high, glassy, pretty consistent
- After checking Flies (which was flat, and closed to the public!), went to Rockpile for a mellow birthday session
- Caught about 15 waves, with a couple of decent rights that lined up ok. On quite a few waves my line was impeded by people paddling out as the spot got more and more crowded, but no biggie.
- In terrible shape, as expected