- Diamond Head, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, up to 30 people out on the various peaks
- Waist-high+, light winds, pretty bumpy, somewhat consistent but mixed up
- Caught 4 waves. Meant to stay out longer, but my 4th wave was really good. A bigger set cam through and I happened to be outside, made the drop in the pocket and had a great wall to work with all the way to the inside. I decided to go in on a high note, laid back down on my board, and managed to ride the whitewater all the way to the sand! Pretty good way to start the year.
- Flies, 7:30AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, Eric showed up after 30min, nobody else out
- Waist-high+ with a few head-high peaks, glassy, a bit oddly shaped but somewhat consistent.
- Caught about 10 waves, with 2 fantastic rights that lined up perfectly. The usual deal with quite a few close-outs but the occasional gem.
- Was great being back in the water after 3 months (!#@!?!) without surfing. Pretty wiped out after the session, as expected.
- Flies, 7AM-8:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, Wendell and Mark out for the first hour.
- Waist-high+, glassy, pretty consistent and nice.
- Caught about 10 waves, including 2 pretty good right.
- On average waves were better shaped than yesterday, but the best wave today. was nothing like the best wave yesterday.
- Feeling pretty beat after 2 sessions in a row following a 3-month layoff.
- Flies, 7AM-8:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- With Nodari and Phil, nobody out
- Waist-high, inconsistent, not very clean, moderate winds
- Caught about 10 waves, nothing to report. Just glad to be in the water.
- Sunset Cliffs, Sub, 12PM-2PM
- On Patrick's 9'0'' quad!
- With Dario, only one other guy out for most of the session.
- Waist-high to chest-high, relatively smooth, but pretty disorganized and soft. Beautiful sunny weather. Of course the water felt incredibly cold at least for the first 15 minutes.
- Caught about 10 waves, with a couple of really good rights, having a blast on Patrick's board.
- Flies, 6:30AM-8AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, 2-3 people out, and Nodari and Phil later
- Waist-high+, very inconsistent but pretty nice when breaking. light winds. overcast.
- Caught about 10 waves, with 3-4 very nice rights. A lot of work to get into waves.
- Flies, 9AM-10:45AM
- On my 9'6''
- With Jason. Nobody out.
- Waist-high+, odd swell direction, not very consistent, tide and wind making for deteriorating conditions.
- Caught about 15 waves, including 2-3 fun rights.
- Flies, 8AM-10:15AM
- On my 9'2''
- By myself. Up to 8 people out, including Nodari at the beginning of the session.
- waist- to shoulder-high, getting smaller as the session went on, somewhat consistent. light winds.
- Caught around 20 waves, including 4-5 nice rights that lined up all the way to the inside.
- Waist-high+, odd swell direction, not very consistent, tide and wind making for deteriorating conditions.
- Flies, 7AM-8:30AM
- On my 9'2''
- By myself, nobody out but one SUP for 1/2 the session
- waist-high+, inconsistent, windy, but still a few occasional very good sets.
- Caught 7-8 waves, including 3 very good rights, one of them absolutely outstanding. A surprisingly good white-water take-off concluded the session before taking off for 2 months for Europe.
- waist- to shoulder-high, getting smaller as the session went on, somewhat consistent. light winds.
- Flies, 9:30AM-11:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, up to 4 people out, Eric paddled out about 1 hour in
- Waist- to shoulder-high, not consistent and oddly shaped, moderate winds, tide getting too high quickly
- Caught about 15 waves, with only a couple of decent rights
- First session after two months out of the water equals lame paddling due to noodle arms.
- Queens, 9PM-10:30PM
- On my 9'6''
- With Larry, Conrad, and about 5 other friends of theirs
- Waist-high+, glassy, a few lulls, but sets coming through relatively frequently, decent moon.
- Caught about 8 waves, with 2 very nice rights.
- First night session in a looooong time, and it was pretty great.
- Flies, 6:30AM-8:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- With Emmanuel and Nodari, up to 10 people out
- Head-high+, light winds, not super consistent but some big sets and some of them not closing out
- Caught 15+ waves, with 2 absolutely outstanding rights that stayed open all the way in, with clean faces.
- Flies, 7:30AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'2''
- With Bryson, up to 10 people out
- Shoulder-high+, light winds, not super consistent especially as the tide went up. Smaller than yesterday, but cleaner.
- Caught 6-7 waves, with 2 decent rights.
- Flies, 8AM-10AM
- On my 9'2''
- By myself, 1-2 other people in the line-up
- Overhead+ with some double-overhead sets, light winds, consistent
- Really hard to get to the line-up, really hard to get into the big waves, and no desire to sit inside and get the big waves on the head, which lead to a waveless session.
- About 20 mins to paddle out, which, considering, wasn't so bad. Tried to catch a few waves and then got cleaned up by an outside set, all the way back to the inside. About 40min to paddle back out, which was particularly grueling since I was on the left side. Then about 3min of rest, and trying to catch a wave again and again, unsuccessfully, to eventually get cleanup up again all the way to the inside, on the left side again! At that point, paddled in and was done. Massive workout.
- Several people never made it to the line-up and just gave up.
- Flies, 10:30AM-12PM
- On my 9'6'' (which is really starting to fall apart)
- By myself, up to 6-7 people out (mostly guys on foils!), Eric at the end of the session
- waist-high+, not consistent and odd due to a cross swell that created a lot of doubles, but as usual some decent waves coming through occasionally. Light to moderate winds.
- Caught 12 waves, with 2-3 very night rights that had a nice wall, a bit sectiony but enough power to make it possible to go around/through sections back to the pocket.
- Diamond Head, 7:30AM-9AM
- On my 9'6''
- With Nodari, up to 20 people in the (spread out) line-up
- waist-high+ with a few head-high peaks, rather disorganized due to a cross swell, not consistent, moderate winds.
- Caught 3 waves outside, including a very nice right even though I had to swerve quite a bit on the face to avoid people who were on the inside.
- Ended the session on the inside as the outside waves were so hard to catch and so few-and-far-between.
- Flies, 7AM-8AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, up to 10 people out
- Waist-high+, smooth but not consistent in part to rising tide.
- Caught 4-5 waves, with 3 good rights that were hard to get into but nicely walled up on the inside.
- Turtle on the outside
- Flies, 7AM-8:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, up to 6 people in the line up including Jason
- waist- to shoulder-high+, not consistent, wobbly due to tide, not as big as forecasted, glassy.
- Caught 4-5 waves, with 2 decent rights. Weird conditions today. Took a massive tumble on a big one that jacked up suddenly.
- Flies, 7:30AM-9AM
- On my 9'2''
- By myself, up to 10 people out including Jay, Greg, Amy
- Waist- to head-high, not consistent, glassy.
- Caught about 10 waves, with 3 really good mid-size rights that stayed open all the way.
- Pretty fun session overall
- Flies, 7:30AM-9AM
- On my 9'2''
- By myself, up to 4-5 people out including Amy at the end
- Waist- to head-high, not consistent at all, glassy.
- What a weird session. Caught a nice right right away, and then it went from big closeouts to 40 minute with uncatchable mid-size waves. Then I caught a couple of nice rights that, somehow, lined up. I hesitated about going back out, opted to go back out for one more, and then took a pretty big set on the head in the channel, 4-5 waves or so. Made it back out, then saw a bigger set on the horizon, and barely made it over it. Right then, a peaky right show up right where I was, and I had my best wave of the session all the way to the stairs. So once again, overall lame/weird/indescribable conditions at Flies, but 3 great rides by the end of the session...
- Diamond Head, 3PM-4:30PM
- On my 9'2''
- With Melody and Christopher, 20+ people out in the line-up
- Waist-high, light winds, consistent if a bit messy
- We stayed inside the whole time.
- Caught 10+ waves, within only a couple of decent ones
- It was great to be back in the water after such a long time without surfing (too much work, travel off island, hurt back, bad weather, dog ate my homework)