- Old Man, 10AM-11:30AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, up to 3 other people out, alone for at least 30min
- Kneed- to waist-high, inconsistent and weak.
- Caught 3 waves, all lefts of course, nothing to report
- It was nice getting in the water after 1.5 month in France for family reasons, and then 2 weeks sick with some flu-like bug (but not the coronavirus... Ha!) in Hawaii. Sooooo out of shape though.
- Old Man, 3PM-4PM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, up to 3-4 people out
- Knee- to waist-high, consistent-ish, light winds
- Caught 4 waves
- First session in a long time due to being sick, and then due to the Coronavirus lockdown. Pretty out of shape of course, but things should be getting better if I get wet next week.
- Old Man, 4PM-5:30PM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, up to 7-8 people out
- Knee- to waist-high, pretty weak, light winds
- Caught 3 waves, all pretty weak
- Not as out of shape as last week!
- Flies, 3PM-4:30PM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, up to 10 people out
- waist- to chest-high, clean and nice for the first 45 minutes, and then there was a 45-min lull with absolutely no waves. Light winds.
- Caught 6-7 waves, with a couple very nice open rights.
- Today most waves stayed nicely open all the way in...
- Flies, 6:30PM-8:30PM
- On my 9'2'' Morgan
- By myself, up to 10 people out including Nodari and Phil
- waist- to chest-high, clean but not consistent at all, no wind
- Caught 3-4 waves, short sections. A few bigger ones came through but they were really hard to get into and almost always closing out. So different from yesterday...
- Flies, 2:30PM-4PM
- On my 9'2'' Morgan
- By myself, up to 3-4 people out, including Tracy and Eric on the shore
- chest- to head-high+, long waits between sets, but sets came really regularly, light winds
- All bigger waves closed out. First surfed the inside, and then went to the line-up
- Caught 5-6 waves, with nothing great due to mushy inside or closing out outside
- Flies, 8AM-9AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, alone for a while, one other guy out
- waist-high+, clean and consistent, no winds.
- Caught 2 nice rights. At the end of the 2nd one I sat back down on my board, and as I laid back down on it I tweaked my back. I did paddle back out and caught one more wave in and called it a day. Hopefully it won't be too bad, but it's clearly not "nothing". Too bad since conditions were nice and there was no one out.
- Flies, 8AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, 2-3 other longboarders out (including Ben and Gina), and 3-4 foilers on the inside. Turtle in the line-up.
- waist-high, very inconsistent, sort of clean earlier but very ugly at the end.
- Was able to get back into surfing after two trips to the chiropractor. Not 100%, but pretty close.
- Caught 3 pretty nice rights early on, and then the conditions deteriorated. Ended up catching 2 more horrible waves in the next hour, and decided to go in on the 2nd one.
- Flies, 7:30AM-9AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, 6-7 other people out, shortboard foilers, SUP foilers, standard SUPs, shortboarders, longboarders. The works. Turtle in the line-up.
- Waist- to occ. chest-high, consistent-ish, pretty clean but deteriorating toward the end a bit.
- Caught about 10 waves, with 3-4 really good rights. Not completely open but not closing either, possible to go around sections.
- Really good session overall. No back problems, which was great.
- Flies, 8:30AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, up 6-7 other people out, including Garry.
- Waist-high+, clean a bit weak, somewhat consistent, no wind
- Caught about 12 waves, with a couple of fun rights. Others didn't have much of a wall to work with and sort of petered out.
- Flies, 8AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, up 10 other people out, including Nodari and Phil. Saw Eric, Tracey, and Jim in the lot after the session.
- Waist- to head-high, very weird shape/angle, somewhat consistent but for a 20 minute lull. Getting bigger but weirder as the tide rose.
- Caught about 10 waves, with only 2 pretty fun rights. The others where closing out, and a few bigger outside sets we took on the head.
- Saw a small shark swimming along a wave that was standing up, one turtle on the outside.
- Flies, 8:30AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'2'' Morgan
- By myself, up 8 other people out, including Jim, Jacky, Ben. Say Eric and Tracey in the lot after the session.
- Waist- to shoulder-high, consistent-ish, glassy at first and then windy at the end, pretty fun size.
- Caught about 20 waves, with 2-3 really nice rights that stayed open all the way to the channel. Somehow did a number of pretty poor take-offs today, especially as conditions evolved with the rising tide and rising wind.
- Finally feeling like I am in decent paddling shape!
- Flies, 7:30AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, up 6 other people out, including Ben and Gina.
- Waist- to chest-high, inconsistent, light winds, weak.
- Caught about 10 waves, with a couple of nice rights, but over all waves were pretty weak and hard to get into (and on a 9'6'').
- Turtle on the outside
- Toes, 8:30AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, up 2-3 other people out.
- Waist- to chest-high, windy, quite messy
- Caught about 5 lefts, nothing too special.
- A huge workout today to paddle to the spot (that's expected), and to paddle back out to the line-up after each wave.
- I am definitely in "Flies" shape, but not quite in "Toes" shape
- Flies, 7:30AM-9AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, up 7-8 other people out, with 3-4 foilers inside
- Waist- to chest-high, not consistent especially as the tide/wind rose, a bit week but some nice chest-high sets once in a while.
- Caught about 10 waves, with 3 really nice rights with open walls.
- Flies, 2PM-3:30PM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, up 3 other people out
- Waist-high+, incredibly inconsistent and weak due to the high tide. Paddle out to take a break during the work day.
- Caught 4-5 non-waves, but one super nice, long, lined-up chest-high wave that came out of nowhere. So I guess it was all worth it.
- Flies, 7:30AM-9AM
- On my 9'2'' Morgan
- By myself, 25 people out at first and then down to 10, including Nodari, Phil, Marshall, Ben
- Waist- to head-high, consistent, glassy, a bit oddly shaped.
- Caught about 10 waves, and was feeling tired from yesterday afternoon late session. Several decent rights, but my last one was absolutely outstanding, head-high, lined-up, some power, glassy, and left me almost at the stairs. Couldn't ask for more really. Decided to end the session on that high note!
- Flies, 6:30AM-8AM
- On my 9'2'' Morgan
- By myself, 15 people out, including marshall, ben, nodari, ian, etc.
- Waist- to head-high, not very consistent, glassy at times, windy at others.
- Caught about 8 waves, with a couple decent ones, but really, really tired today.
- My leash came off (didn't break) on a bit wipe out on a close-out on which I tried to take a high line. Had to swim in to get the board, which Ian was holding for me, which was nice.
- Going to stay out of the water for 3 days to recuperate a bit!
- Flies, 7:30AM-9AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, 2-3 people out, including Jackie at the end.
- Waist- to head-high, not very consistent, a bit weak, but some nice sets coming through, light winds.
- Met Marshall and Val in the parking lot, and Val had checked it and said it was hardly breaking. They both left and I decided to paddle out without a leash just for a workout. Turns out, there were plenty of waves!
- Caught about 20 waves, with a couple of fun rights. Toward the end of the session, I took the biggest wave of the day on the head and lost my board. Had to swim quite a bit, first toward the shore (where a shortboarder on the inside handed me my hat), and then to be told by fishermen that I was swimming the wrong way and my board was way toward the harbor. Swam all the way there, got my board, caught two more nice waves and called it quit.
- Overall a pretty nice session, and definitely a workout
- Flies, 8AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'2'' Morgan
- By myself, alone with Hianci (sp?) for 1 hour, then a few foilers on the inside
- Waist-high+, not very consistent, but not bad. Getting windier and weirder as session went on
- Caught 15+ waves, with 2 or 3 fun rights (but a bit short). A few bigger sets came on which take-offs were a bit sketchy.
- Another surprisingly fun session given the conditions!
- Flies, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'2'' Morgan
- By myself, 3-4 people out including Ben and Ryan.
- Waist-high+, not very consistent and getting worse and worse as the tide came in (as expected). Light winds.
- Caught 5-6 waves, including one super fun right.
- I hurt my back (again) last week, so I took it easy today.
- Flies, 7:30AM-9:15AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, 15+ people out including Val, Marshall, Hiance, Nodari, Phil
- Waist-high+, not super consistent and a bit weak. Glassy.
- Caught 6-7 waves including two really good rights. Difficult to get into the waves today as they were pretty weak. But once on it, they were surprisingly fun.
- Flies, 9AM-11AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, 10-15 people out including Ben, and later Eric, and Tracy
- Waist-high+, not very consistent, junky, light to moderate winds, but got a bit better after the 1st hour.
- Caught 8-10 waves, with 2-3 fun rights, if still a bit weak.
- One turtle in the line-up.
- Toes, 2PM-3:30PM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, nobody else out
- Waist-high, consistent-ish, moderate wind but often smoothing out the waves/line-up
- Caught 10+ waves, with a fun right and a couple of fun lefts. Waves weren't very well lined up and rides weren't too long. But quite dreamy being out there by myself.
- Toes, 7:30AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, about 10 people out
- Waist-high+, not very consistent, light winds, getting stronger as time went on of course
- Caught 15+ waves, with a couple of fun lefts. A few bigger sets came through, but they were few and far between.
- Toes, 11AM-12:30PM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, about 15 people out
- Waist-high+, pretty consistent, light winds
- Caught 7-8 waves, with a couple of fun lefts. Had to deal a bit with the "crowd" today, which included many really good longboarders.
- Toes, 9:30AM-11:30AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, 3-4 people out
- Waist-high, 10-min lulls between sets, no wind initially and then light on-shores toward the end
- Caught 10+ waves, with 2-3 nice lefts and a couple of quick rights. Many of the bigger waves were closing out, but still nice corners to be found.
- Beautiful conditions early on, as glassy as can be in Hawaii. Turtles on the outside.
- A lady in the line-up was stung by what she thought was a Man-O-War... she was ok in the end.
- Courts, 9:30AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, ~25 people out
- Waist-high+, really, really inconsistent, glassy
- Caught 2 waves, the first one being a super fun right (not sure how I managed to get one like that given the crowd and the lack of waves), and the last one being a bit weak but ridable. Decided to call it quit after that wave.
- Toes, 3PM-4:30PM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, no one out
- Knee-high+, not very consistent, windy
- Caught 10-12 waves, with a couple of pseudo-decent lefts. It was just a great workout and a beautiful afternoon out there.
- Threes, 9:30AM-11:45AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, 3-4 people out
- waist-high, not very consistent, weakened by rising tide, light winds
- Caught 10+ waves, with two very nice rights that brought back good memories of when I used to surf here. Other waves were pretty weak.
- First time at Threes in 7 years!
- Toes, 3:30PM-5PM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, nobody out for 45 minutes and then 3-4 people out
- waist-high, consistent-ish, a bit weak and bumpy, moderate winds
- Caught 10+ waves, with a couple of decent lefts
- Toes, 2:30PM-4:30PM
- On my 9'2'' Morgan
- By myself, from 2 to 4 people out
- waist-high+, consistent-ish, light winds
- Caught 8+ waves, with one great left
- Really tired at the end of that session
- Threes, 3:30PM-5PM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, 4 people out for 4 minutes, and then alone for the whole session. Two of the people out there paddled back to their boat!
- knee to waist-high, not consistent with long 20-min lulls, but some nice waist-high sets once in a while, light winds.
- Caught about 10 waves, with a couple of decent one, and in particular my last one, which was fast and steeper, on which I got a micro-cover-up, and which allowed quite a few turns and high lines.
- Overall a super dreamy session, with beautiful skies, diamond head, turtles, rainbows.
- Initially I planned to go to Courts, but found that one couldn't park in Ala Moana beach park, which I suspected. I parked on Waimanu, walked to Ala Moana Blvd, but found that the foot bridges were closed too! So I walked to a second bridge, which unsurprisingly was close too, and then back to the car. I then drove over to the Kaiser parking lot, and found a spot! I opted to paddle straight from there to Threes, for the workout. Good thing the Toes training is paying off. After my last wave, I paddled straight from the spot to the parking lot too.
- Threes, 3PM-4:30PM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, nobody out.
- knee-high, even less consistent than yesterday (in spite of a seemingly better forecast) with a 35-min lull
- Caught about 10 waves, with two decent ones, but nothing like yesterday
- Quite a few turtles in the water
- Getting less tired from the 1/2-mile paddle from the parking lot (and 1/2-mile paddle back!)
- Threes, 2:30PM-5PM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, one guy and then 3 SUPs on the inside, and for the last hour 2 people out
- knee- to waist-high, not consistent at all but a few decent sets once in a while; no winds.
- Caught about 10 waves, with 3 pretty good rights.
- Nothing to report besides beautiful weather and turtles
- Flies, 7:30AM-9AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, for 5 to 15 people out, including Nodari, Phil, Ben, Yansee (sp?), etc.
- waist- to chest-high, smooth, pretty slow and not very consistent.
- Caught about 15 waves, with 3-4 great rights. It was definitely the day to be out on the long board as getting into waves was really difficult. I probably annoyed the shortboarders that were on the inside by catching waves on the outside.
- Had to park outside the park due to the "lockdown", and had forgotten that it's all park-meter now in Kakahako! I didn't have enough quarters at all, but decided to chance it. That paid off as I didn't get a ticket!
- Flies, 2:30PM-4:30AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, alone for a while, and then up to 3-4 people out at the end
- waist- to chest-high+, light winds, pretty slow and inconsistent due to high tide as only the biggest waves were breaking.
- Caught 10+ waves, with a couple of pretty fun rights, but with relatively soft/fat shoulders after the first section.
- Decided to paddled out mid-tide, rising, where the peak was at a high 2.5ft, figuring it should be empty and still possible to catch waves on my 9'6''. I guess it worked out.
- Flies, 9:30AM-11:30AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, a couple of foilers out, and then up to 8-9 people out, including Ben
- waist-high+, not consistent and slow/weak, moderate winds, weirdly getting less consistent/nice as the tide dropped.
- Caught 15+ waves, with a couple of decent rights early on. Struggled to catch a last wave.
- Flies, 2:30PM-4PM
- On my 9'2'' Morgan
- By myself, from 5 to 15 people out including Eric, Jim, Jackie, Tracy, Nodari, Phil.
- waist-high, not very consistent and pretty slow/fat, light winds.
- Caught 8-10 waves, with a couple of decent rights, but it became very meager pickings toward the end of the session. Caught a lame wave in, and that was it.
- Glad that I found non-park-metered parking today!
- Toes, 2:30PM-4PM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- With Nodari, nobody out
- waist-high+, very messy due to strong trades, but still some rideable waves once in a while
- Caught about 10 waves, with a couple of long lefts, but never much of a clean face to work with.
- One turtle on the outside
- Threes, 9:30AM-11AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez,d no leash
- By myself, started alone and then up to 10 people out
- knee-high+, not consistent, light winds
- Caught about 5-6 waves, with a couple of decent rights, given the conditions. Lost my board once.
- One turtle in the lineup. Always a good workout to paddle from the Kaiser parking lot
- Flies, 2PM-3:30PM
- On my 9'2'' Morgan
- By myself, started with 2-3 people and then up to 20, but mostly hanging out on the left
- waist- to head-high, not super consistent and pretty slow/fat, but still some nice sets with steep walls, often closing out though
- Caught 6-7 waves, with 2 really good right, and in particular my last wave. Decided to call it at that point, as somehow this session was pretty tired.
- On the way back to the lot, there was a transient guy shouting at another behind him, and then throwing big stones at him, which almost hit me!
- Flies, 2:30PM-4PM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, 2 other people out
- waist-high, not consistent at all and slow due to rising tide
- Caught 7-8 waves, all pretty weak with a lot effort necessary to drop in and then very short rides with the shoulder just disappearing. There were only a couple that had any kind of wall.
- Flies, 9:45AM-11:15AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, 4-6 people out including Hiancy
- waist- to chest-high, not consistent at all initially due to the still pretty high tide, but getting better as time went on
- Caught 10 waves, most of them in the 2nd half of the session, with 2 really good rights that had a nice wall at the edge of closing out but staying open almost all the way to the inside.
- Flies, 2:30PM-4:30PM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, 1 other guy out at first, and then up to 15
- waist-high+, extremely slow and inconsistent due to the tide, which was going down
- Caught about 8 waves, with 2 good ones, but there were several lulls, one of them 30min!
- Flies, 8AM-10AM
- On my 9'2'' Morgan
- By myself, 15 people out at first, and then down to a handful, with Eric and Jackie at the end
- waist- to head-high, pretty consistent but a bit oddly shaped and difficult to read; smooth at first, and then getting bumpier as time went on
- Caught about 20 waves, with 3-4 really good rights. Got mildly caught inside a few times, which was a workout
- Flies, 8AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, only Amy out on a small SUP but never in the line-up.
- waist-high, glassy, consistent-ish, weak but very smooth. Completely shutdown at the end of the session, i.e., once the tide started going up.
- Caught about 20 waves, with a couple of decent ones even though walls were short and not steep
- waist- to head-high, pretty consistent but a bit oddly shaped and difficult to read; smooth at first, and then getting bumpier as time went on
- Caught about 20 waves, with 3-4 really good rights. Got mildly caught inside a few times, which was a workout
- Threes, 10AM-11:30AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, 2-3 other people out
- waist-high, not consistent and pretty weak, light winds
- Caught 5-6 waves, with one good right. Was expecting pretty weak waves given the forecast and tide, but this was a bit too weak. Very pleasant out there though.
- My last wave was decent with a bit of a wall, but, weirdly it was super long and took me very close to the beach, which is always nice
- Flies, 8AM-10AM
- On my 9'2'' Morgan
- By myself, 4-5 other people out
- Waist- to chest-high, very inconsistent due to high tide, light winds but quite a bit of texture in the water.
- Caught 5-6 waves, with only a couple of them decent, the others having a pretty weak non-wall.
- Waves were difficult to get into.
- Flies, 2PM-4PM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, 4-5 other people out
- Waist-high+, very consistent, very ugly (Kona winds)
- Caught 30+ waves, with a couple of good rights in spite of weird dumpy walls.
- Sooooooo tired after that session, basically was paddling/riding the whole time, and not much sitting on the board.
- Flies, 8AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, 4-5 other people out
- Waist-high+, consistent-ish, light winds, a bit weak.
- Caught 15+ waves, with two or three pretty decent ones. Good thing I took my 9'6'' today as it was quite a bit of work to get into the waves.
- Canoes, 8PM-9:30PM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- With Larry, Dave, and 4 other people, nobody else out
- Knee-high+, junky, weird
- Caught 7-8 non-waves. Nice to be out there though. Nice moon.
- Threes, 9:15AM-10:30PM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, up to three other guys out. Saw Jim and Jackie after the session.
- waist- to occ chest-high, light winds, really inconsistent and weak due to high tide
- Caught 5-6 waves with one good right.
- Grabbed a bunch of cut grass from the park for my compost!
- Toes, 9:45AM-11AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- With Nodari, nobody else out
- knee- to waist-high, consistent-ish but some lulls, moderate winds
- Caught 10+ waves, with a couple of decent lefts, but not very well lined-up.
- Toes, 9:00AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, nobody out but for a few people for the first 10 minutes
- Waist-high, not very consistent, very windy, pretty ugly
- Caught 4-5 waves, with only one decent left to end the session with
- Caught 10+ waves, with a couple of decent lefts, but not very well lined-up.
- Toes, 2PM-4PM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, between 2 and 15 people out, but not a factor
- Waist-high, somewhat consistent, light winds and then almost no wind later, and thus glassy!
- Caught 20+ waves, with a few decent rights a a few long smooth lefts toward the end.
- There were two guys off the main break, toward Hawaii Kai, who were on standups, and anchores an inflatable duck somewhere in the line-up, where I think they kept some water and seemed to serve as sort of a rally point for them. Pretty unusual.
- Toes, 8AM-9:45AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash at first, and then put my leash on after losing my board
- By myself, 4 other people out for most of the session
- Waist-high, consistent-ish, light winds, not very clean shapes but for a few waves
- Caught about 20 waves, with 3-4 nice lefts
- Lost my board on a close-out, and had to swim inside in like 2ft of water, where a nice lady was holding my board for me!
- Toes, 3PM-4PM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, 3 windsurfers out
- Waist-high, consistent-ish but junky, light to moderate winds, some rideable lefts
- Caught about 10 waves, with 2 decent lefts, including the last one of the session
- Toes, 2PM-3PM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, 6 people out at first and then up to about 15
- Waist-high+, consistent, glassy, overall very nice.
- Caught 7-8 lefts and 1 right. The lefts were nicely shaped. I took of on a bigger one with a chest-high peak, and barely made it, which was good because of the lack of a leash!
- Had to park on the street as the parking lot was full.
- Toes, 2:30PM-4PM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash for the first half of the session
- By myself, 2 other people out at first and then up to about 10
- Waist-high, oddly shaped, not very consistent, light winds
- Caught 10+ waves, with the last one between a weird shoulder-high peak
- Toes, 8:30AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, 2 and then only 1 other guy out (Kawika)
- Waist-high+ with some chest-high peaks, somewhat consistent and pretty clean (especially there was a great 45 minutes with nice sets), light winds
- Caught 20+ waves, with a couple of nice rights and nice lefts
- Flies, 8:30AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, nobdy out
- Waist-high, high tide, terribly weak, but decided to padle out for the exercise (too lazy to go to Toes)
- Caught 7-8 non-waves, which given the conditions was basically a miracle.
- Flies, 8AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez.
- By myself, 25 people out at first, and then down to 2 for the last hour! (not counting a couple of foilers on the inside)
- Waist-to chest-high, consistent-ish even though slow due to the tide, totally glassy!
- Caught 20+ waves, with at least 10 good rights. It was slow, but with the 9'6'' it was super fun. Good call to go in at rising tide, which is when most people got out of the water.
- Waist-high, high tide, terribly weak, but decided to padle out for the exercise (too lazy to go to Toes)
- Flies, 8AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez.
- By myself, 20-25 people out, icluding Jackie, Tracy, Robin, and a few other people I know. Eric paddled out as I was paddling in.
- Waist-to chest-high, consistent-ish and a bit slow, light winds and getting a bit windier as time went on
- Caught 20+ waves, with 10+ good rights including 2 really good ones. Was able to get a bunch of waves in spite of the crowd due to surfing this board.
- Some guy hurt himself with, apparently, his own fins and had a b ig gash on his head. Ambulance on the shore.
- Flies, 8AM-10:15AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez.
- By myself, 25 people out at first and down to 5 at the end of the session, including James (last day in Hawaii before moving to Louisiana).
- Waist-to chest-high, with a few head-high+ sets, pretty consistent and smooth, glassy.
- Caught 20+ waves, with at least 10 great rights. Such a nice and unexpected session on Christmas day!
- Toes, 10AM-11AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash.
- By myself, 2 SUPs at the peak I was at, about 5 people at the other peak
- Knee- to wait-high, glassy initially but winds picking up toward the end, consistent-ish but quite weak.
- Caught 10+ waves, with a couple decent lefts, especially considering the condition and that the whole South Shore seemed completely flat.