- Kaiser, 1:30PM-3PM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, mostly 3 other people out and about 5 more at the end, which prompted me to just catch a wave in
- Knee-high+, almost glassy, pretty weak but somewhat working due to low tide
- Caught 10+ waves, with a couple of nice ones given the conditions
- Saw a monk seal and a turtle outside
- Toes, 9AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, 2 other people out.
- Knee-high, almost glassy, pretty weak and inconsistent, drizzling at times.
- Caught only 3-4 waves, all lefts. Just a good workout.
- Toes, 9AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, 4 other people out
- Knee- to waist-high, glassy and light winds at the end, pretty weak and inconsistent for the first part of the session, but much better at the end.
- Caught about 8-9 waves, all but one in the second half of the session. A couple of nice lefts over crystal-clear water.
- A stupid boat zipped by the outside, creating tons of ripples, and then, amazingly, went on the inside! I think they were trying to watch us surf? It was so stupid (and illegal).
- Toes, 9AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, 2 to 4 other people out
- Knee- to occ. waist-high, glassy, inconsistent on the outside for sure, but nice little insiders.
- Caught 10+ waves, with a couple of nice lefts.
- Water was pretty dirty due to the lack of wind (mostly with branches, leaves, flowers though), but still clear. On a tiny wave I went over a hole in the reef where I saw 5 big turquoise parrotfishes. Quite a stunning, cloud-less morning.
- Caught about 8-9 waves, all but one in the second half of the session. A couple of nice lefts over crystal-clear water.
- Toes, 9AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, up to 6-8 other people out
- waist-high occ. +, glassy, not very consistent on the outside.
- Caught 5-6 waves, with a couple of pretty nice lefts that held all the way to the inside
- Toes, 3PM-4PM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, 3 other people out on the first peak
- waist-high, consistent-ish but not nicely shaped, glassy-ish.
- Caught 10+ waves, with one pretty nice left that held all the way to the inside
- Toes, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, 3 other people out on the peak
- waist-high+, consistent-ish, glassy.
- Caught 10+ waves, with two really fun lefts. Some lefts didn't stay open and allowed only for one section, but a couple stayed open all the way in
- Toes, 1:30PM-3PM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, 2 other people out
- waist-high+, consistent-ish, windy and choppy, but totally rideable
- Caught 10+ waves, with a few nice lefts, but overall it was a lot of work to catch waves and go down the face. Completely exhausted after the session.
- Toes, 9AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, nobody else out
- waist-high+, consistent-ish but a bit disorganized, moderate winds
- Caught about 6-7 waves, with short rides but for a couple.
- There were 6 foilers out when I paddled out, but they all came in so that by the time I got to the lineup I was alone, and I was alone the whole time.
- Caught 10+ waves, with a few nice lefts, but overall it was a lot of work to catch waves and go down the face. Completely exhausted after the session.
- Toes, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- With Mahdi, nobody else out
- waist-high+ occ. chest-high, not too consistent, windy, but still working
- Caught 10+ waves, a couple nice lefts with way more size that what it looked like from shore
- A huge turtle right in the line-up
- First Hole, 4:30PM-6PM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- With Ryan, Lambert, and Dylan, nobody else out
- knee- to waist-high, consistent-ish, light winds
- Caught 8+ waves, with a couple of nice rights
- Old Man, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself (Cécile on the beach), about 25 people out quite spread out
- Waist- to chest-, not very consistent and sort weak/wobbly at times
- Caught 8+ waves, with a couple of nice ones, bu tapering off very quickly
- Flies, 11:15AM-12:15AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, up to 10 people out including Che
- Waist- to chest-, pretty consistent, light winds up until the end when it started getting more windy
- Caught 10+ waves, with one great one toward the end of the session
- Flies, 10:15AM-11:15AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, up to 3-4 people out incliding Che
- Waist- to occ chest-high, not very consistent and a bit wonky, light winds
- Caught 5+ waves, with one pretty good one. Short sections today.
- Flies, 10:15AM-11:30AM
- On my 9'2''
- By myself, from 15 to 20 people out, including Che
- Chest-high, slow and weak due to tide and angle, but a few sets. Moderate winds.
- Caught 6-7 waves, with 2 nice rights, but others were pretty sectiony.
- Flies, 10AM-11:30AM
- On my 9'2''
- By myself, up to 5-6 people out.
- Head- to almost double-overhead high, consistent but wrong angle and 100% of rights were closing out; lefts were a bit more open; moderate winds.
- Had to paddle around the left as the "channel" was head-high and closing out. On the way out the long way, got hit by a school of fish that jumped out of the water!
- Caught 3-4 lefts, one weak ones staying opened, and the bigger ones closing out after a short section. One was better but I spun out mid-face after the take-off.
- The paddle back in was a pretty stiff workout, fighting the current on the way back.
- Flies, 10AM-11:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, up to 15 people out.
- Chest- to Head-high+, consistent-ish for the most part but a couple of lulls during the session. Much better shape than yesterday, but rights were not staying open all the way in.
- Caught about 10 waves, with one really good rights and a few fun take-offs.
- Some guy broke his longboard in half at some point, even though it wasn't that big today.
- Ewa Beach, 3PM-4:30PM
- On my 9'6''
- With Cedric's family (Frank, Adrien, Marc, Anna) on my other boards
- Knee- to waist-high, really weak and some waves. Not great conditions for beginners.
- Caught about 20 waves with one decent right.
- Plenty of turtles in the line-up
- Flies, 10:30AM-12PM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, up for 7-8 other people out
- waist- to chest-high, somewhat consistent, winds picking up throughout the session
- Caught about 15 waves, with 2 or 3 decent rights
- Met up with Jim and Eric after the session, who were just looking at it, and then we had got lunch at Highway Inn in Kakahako
- Old Man, 11:30AM-12:30PM
- On my 9'6'', no leash
- By myself, 5-6 other people out
- knee- to waist-high, pretty slow/weak
- Caught 2 waves.
- Paddled out to start getting back into surfing shape, and my arms felt like wet noodles right away.
- Toes, 9:30AM-11AM
- On my 9'6'', no leash
- By myself, 5-6 other people out
- knee- to waist-high, occ. +, almost perfectly glassy
- Caught 4-5 waves, with the last one being the only good one.
- Was sooo out of shape. Lost my board on the first wave and had to swim in pretty far, and then was basically off on all other waves, but for the last one which was great and seemed like a good point to stop.
- Toes, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, up to 20 other people out! (including Kawika)
- knee- to waist-high, light winds
- Caught about 10 waves, with a couple of fun ones.
- Felt in much better shape than yesterday.
- Flies, 1PM-2PM
- On my 9'6''
- With Jim and Eric, up to 15 other people out
- waist- to head-high+, light winds, consistent but slow due to the tide, pretty hard to get into waves
- Caught about 5-6 waves, with a couple of really good ones that stayed open. Pretty tired after the session, but a super late lunch with Jim and Eric at Highway Inn made it all better.
- Flies, 9:30AM-11AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, up to 8 other people out
- waist- to occ. chest-high, light winds, consistent-ish but a bit weak and difficult to get into waves
- Caught about 10 waves, with a several decent rights
- Flies, 9:30AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, two other people one.
- waist-high, consistent-ish but pretty messy most of the time so hard to get into waves.
- Caught about 10 waves, with two nice lefts, including the last one on which I opted to go home after a relatively quick session.
- Flies, 8AM-9AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, 5 other people out including Glenn
- waist- to chest-high, somewhat consistent, well lined up on the left, trades
- Caught 4 waves, with 2 nice ones. Surprisingly good today really. Nice conversation with Glenn, even though mostly about sharks!
- Ewa Beach, 2PM-3PM
- On my 9'6''
- With Peter W., nobody out
- knee-high+, junky, inconsistent
- Caught 10+ waves, with nothing to write home about. It was Peter W.'s second session of his life.
- Cut my foot pretty badly on the coral on the inside, rather stupidly.
- Flies, 9:30AM-11AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, about 6-7 other people out including Nick
- waist-high+, not consistent at all, moderate winds, super weak
- Caught 4 waves, and for a while felt that perhaps it was going to be a wave-less session!
- Flies, 2PM-3:30PM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, 3-4 other people out
- waist to occ. head-high, not consistent, windy and mixed up (but getting better as time went on), really oddly shaped, junky
- Caught about 10 waves, with only 1 decent one. Good workout though.
- Flies, 9:30AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, about 10 other people out. Saw Jim and Eric on the shore afte rthe session.
- waist to occ. chest-high, almost glassy, consistent-ish, nicely shaped and lined up.
- Caught about 8 waves, with a couple of really fun rights. I decided to get out of the water and end on a high note after an absolutely great right that was chest-high, steep but not closing out, lined up, and basically perfect, and in addition took me all the way to the stairs.
- Toes, 3:30PM-4:30PM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, 2 other people out
- waist-high+, consistent-ish, light trades.
- Caught 5-6 waves, with two really nice lefts that lined up. Others were more sectiony.
- Toes, 9:30AM-11AM
- On my 9'6'', no leash
- By myself, 1 other guy out
- knee- to waist-high, consistent-ish, moderate trades.
- Caught 10+ waves, with one or two decent lefts and one fun right.
- Flies, 1PM-2:30PM
- On my 9'6'', no leash
- By myself, 1 foiler inside and a few shortboarders later
- Waist- to occ. chest-high, consistent-ish for the 1st hour, and then really inconsistent and weak even though the tide was dropping... light winds.
- Caught 15+ waves, with many fun rights that faded on the inside, but still pretty fun.
- Toes, 9:30AM-11AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, 5-6 other people out
- Waist- to occ. chest-high, consistent-ish, moderate winds
- Caught about 6-7 waves with one of two decent lefts
- Toes, 9:30AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, 4 other people out on the peak
- Waist-high+, consistent waves rolling in but many weak/double ones
- Caught 6-7 waves, with a couple of nice lefts
- Flies, 12PM-1:30PM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, 5-6 other people out including Nodari
- Waist- to chest-high, relatively consistent waves, light winds with quite a bit of texture in the water
- Caught 10+ waves, with one really nice bigger right.
- Flies, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'', no leash
- By myself, two foilers far on the inside
- Waist-high, occ. +, somewhat consistent in spite of the still high tide. In fact, wacve shape was nicer earlier on, with more close-outs as the tide dropped.
- Caught 10+ waves, with several plesant rights, especially early on.
- At some point one of the foilers on the inside asked me if the thing floating in front of me was a shark or a stingray! I tried to look and it didn't look like a shark. Then I caught a wave in and told him so. Still, on the way back out I paddled beyond the line-up and saw it was a big black trashbag. I rolled it up and stuck it under my rashguard for the whole session.
- Flies, 1PM-2:30PM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, 4-6 people out including Eric and Tracy
- Waist-high+, pretty consistent at first, and less as the session went on. A few decent waves in the first half of the session.
- Caught about 8 waves, with one or two fun rights. nothing to write home about.
- Saw Jim who was paddling out right when I was paddling in.
- Toes, 9AM-10AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, 15+ people out, most on the main peak
- Waist-high+, consistent, almost perfectly glassy.
- So many people on the main peak that I stayed closer to the channel, which wasn't great but at least no hustling for waves. Caught about 10 waves, with a couple of good ones if tapering off quickly. The main peak looked xsuper fun, but I didn't feel like facing the crowd.
- Got to the spot around 8AM and hung out at a table in the park reviewing papers before paddling out, which was super relaxing
- Flies, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'2''
- By myself, up to 10 people in the line-up
- Waist- to shoulder-high, pretty consistent but choppy/mixed-up.
- Caught about 10 waves, with 2-3 nice right. The last one was head-high on the take-off, and the closed out, but somehow I made it and it took me all the way to the stairs, which seemed like a good time to end the session.
- Flies, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, Carl out in the line up (was back from Japan for a vacation, he moved back there 5 years ago!)
- Waist- to occ+, very inconsistent, glassy.
- Caught about 6 waves, with a couple of weak rights that were nice for about 10 yards
- Flies, 9:30AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, about 15 people out (including Carl)
- Waist- to head-high, consistent-ish, but slow (high tide) inconsistent, very light winds.
- Caught about 8 waves, all of them with a very short section before the close out. Ended the session on one of the bigger ones, with a nice drop and wall, which was more open than the others, and so I just took it in.
- Flies, 8:30AM-10:45AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, between 8 and 15 people out (including Nick, Nodari, Amy)
- Waist- to head-high+, consistent-ish but lulls getting longer as the tide came in. Light winds.
- Caught 15+ waves, with a couple of nice rights with a super fun take off.
- Was pretty exhausted after the session. I should have gone in on my (n-1)-th wave, but didn't. oh well.
- Toes, 2:30PM-3:30PM
- On my 9'6'', no leash
- By myself, nobody out
- Waist-high, windy, consistent-ish but not great.
- Caught about 6 lefts, and went home. Nice workout as usual.
- Toes, 8AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6'', no leash
- By myself, 10 people out at first then down to 4
- Waist-high+, light winds, nice shapes but long lulls
- Caught about 6-8 lefts, with a couple of pretty fun ones.
- Toes, 9AM-11AM
- On my 9'6'', no leash
- By myself, up to 10 people out
- Waist-high, light to moderate to strong winds, not very consistent
- Caught about 10 waves, with a couple of decent lefts
- One sea turtle on the inside
- Old Man, 10AM-11AM
- On my 9'6'', no leash
- By myself, up to 7-8 people out. Melody, Chritopher, and Soren on the beach.
- Waist-high+, light winds, not very consistent but some sets
- Caught 5-6 waves, with a couple of nice ones
- One honu in the line-up
- Toes, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, up to 15 people out.
- Waist-high+, no wind, relatively consistent
- Caught 10+ waves, with a couple of surprisingly fun lefts and one good right.
- Parking lot was almost full when I got there, and chaos when I left with 5+ cars waiting for spots.
- Old Man, 4:30PM-5:30PM
- On my 9'6'', no leash
- By myself, up to 10 people out. Christopher, Serge, Melody, and Soren on the beach.
- Knee- to waist-high, no wind, not consistent and weak
- Caught about 5 waves, with a couple of decent lefts. Had to take off quite often close to the rocks to catch anything.
- Toes, 8:30PM-10:30PM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, up to about 20 people out.
- waist-high+, almost perfectly glassy, relatively consistent in spite of a few long lulls.
- Caught 15+ waves, with 2 really good lefts and a couple of fun ut very short rights
- Tons of fish jumping out of the water here and there to escape predators
- Old Man, 4:30PM-5:45PM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, up to about 12 people out. Melody, Christopher and Soren on the beach.
- waist-high+, light wind, not very consistent and looking like there was too much west.
- Caught 4 waves on the main break, with the last one being a super nice clean left that took me inside. Somehow, everybody was out of position for that one.
- Stopped by the flag to watch the sunset, talking with an older surfer I have seen many times at this spot. The sunset was stunning, and then, all of a sudden, a wave rose up right there, and I managed to catch it, which saved me quite a bit of paddling. First time catching a wave at the flag.