- Toes, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'', no leash
- By myself, about 10 people on the main peak but only 2-3 of us on the peak closer to the "channel"
- waist-high, no winds at first and then only very light wind, consistent at first and then getting less consistent as tide went up.
- Caught about 10 waves, including 2 super nice lefts.
- Toes, 9:30AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'', no leash at first
- By myself, between 8 and 15 people out
- waist-high+, almost no wind, not very consistent
- Caught about 10 waves, with several pretty nice lefts
- Lost my board on the inside twice, and ended up putting on my leash (which I keep in my trunks' pocket!)
- Chatted in the line-up with an Italian visitor to the islands!
- Toes, 9:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, between 3 and 8 people out
- waist-high+, almost no wind at first, and then the wind picked up
- Caught 4 waves. The first one was a perfect left, with some size, completely lined up all the way. By the time I got back to the line-up, winds had picked up and conditions had changed. From then on it was very inconsistent with very hard to catch waves... still managed to catch a few, and my last one in, considering, wasn't bad.
- Pod of dolphins on the outside. Honus in the line-up.
- Toes, 8:30AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, up to 10 other people out
- waist-high+, completely glassy for the most part, good at first and getting less consistent as time went on
- Caught about 8 waves with two nice lefts early on in the session. After that things got more difficult, with most waves very hard to catch. Such a beautiful morning out there though.
- In-Betweens, 5:45PM-6:45PM
- On my 9'6''
- With Mahdi, up to 15 people out and a lot more at Bowls and Rockpiles
- waist-high+, a bit choppy, pretty consistent
- Caught about 10 waves, all lefts, with a couple of fun ones. Paddled back to the beach almost in the dark.
- Toes, 8:30AM-9:45AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, up to 15 other people out at first and then down to only a few
- waist-high+, glassy at first and then choppier and choppier, pretty consistent buyt for a lull toward the end
- Caught about 10 waves, all lefts, with one great one that was lined up all the way in. Overall a pretty good session before what, we're being told, will be many windy days in a row.
- Flies, 9AM-10:15AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, between 4 and 8 other people out including Val
- waist-high to overhead, glassy, not super consistent, and a bit twisted and weird.
- Caught about 8 waves, most of them in the mid-range size and often lined up. Caught a couple of big ones including one that was a couple of feet overhead on the peak, and I miraculously made the drop, probably one of the steepest I have done, at least on this 9'6'' beast. Survived the drop and then total close-out explosion behing be. Pretty exhilirating if not the best ride. Went in on a small insider that brought me to the stairs.
- Flies, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, between 4 and 8 other people out including Nodari
- waist- to chest-high, glassy, pretty consistent, mostly clean
- Caught about 10 waves, with 2 or 3 pretty fun rights with a makeable section.
- Toes, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, between 4-6 people on the peak I was at
- waist-high+, glassy, relatively consistent, mostly clean
- Caught about 10 waves, but none of the bigger ones stayed open.
- One turtle in the line-up
- Was great being in the water after one month of rain/wind/cold! I thought I'd be way more out of shape...
- Toes, 11:30AM-12:20PM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, 2-3 people out at first and then alone for most of the session
- Knee- to waist-high, consistent-ish, a bit choppy and ugly due to Kona winds
- Caught about 8 waves and then paddled in
- waist-high+, glassy, relatively consistent, mostly clean
- Caught about 10 waves, but none of the bigger ones stayed open.
- Toes, 8:30AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, 2-3 people out at first and then alone for most of the session, until about 5-6 people paddled out. But I was always alone on the peak I was on.
- Waist-high+, not very consistent at first but much better toward the end, glassy.
- Caught about 10 waves, with 2 or 3 suprisingly fun lefts.
- Toes, 9AM-10AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, 5-6 people out at all, but never in contention with anybody for any wave.
- Waist-high+, consistent-ish, glassy.
- Caught about 8 waves, with about half of them pretty decent lefts.
- Flies, 9:30AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'', no leash
- By myself, 2-3 foilers out
- Waist-high+, not very consisted but goot right before low tide with unexpected surfable waves in spite of the weak swell
- Caught 10+ waves, with 2 super nice rights, somehow.
- One turtle in the line-up
- Back to shore, chatted with a fisherman who had caught some he`e. And then met Eric and Tracy in the parking lot, where we had a 10-min chat!
- Waist-high+, consistent-ish, glassy.
- Caught about 8 waves, with about half of them pretty decent lefts.
- Flies, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'', no leash
- By myself, nobody out
- Waist-high+, consistent with sets every 10 minutes or so, pretty clean, almost glassy
- Caught 6-7 waves, with 2 good rights
- One turtle in the line-up
- Pretty amazing being all alone out there.
- Flies, 9:30AM-11AM
- On my 9'6''
- With Nodari and Rolf, at first 4 people out and at the end about 20
- Waist- to chest-high, consistent-ish but a bit ugly due to quickly rising winds
- Caught about 10 waves, with a couple of decent rights
- Went out on a weekend as it was Rolf's last days in Hawaii, but man, what an ordeal. The traffic due to the Kakahako Farmer's Market and an event in the Kakahako beach park was insane. And then of course it got super crowded in a line-up with few waves. On the way home I had to go to Costco and that was insane as well. Never going out on a Saturday again!
- Flies, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, 5 people out at first including Nick, and then left alone for the last half hour.
- Waist- to chest-high, long waits not not bad, glassy and fairly clean even though the bigger waves closed out).
- Caught about 15 waves, with many super fun rights. A great session overall.a
- Pyramids, 5PM-6PM
- On Kate's 9'2
- With Alex, JB, Drew, and Devin.
- Waist- to chest-high, wind-swelly, pretty soft, light winds
- Caught 3-4 waves, really hard to read and get into the waves.
- What a beautiful view of the North Shore from the line up. After the session, went to Alex's house for his birthday dinner!
- Flies, 8:30AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6''
- By myself, one foiler out for 1/2 hour and then alone
- Waist-high+, inconsistent, high tide, windy, pretty horrible
- Caught 5 "waves" and went home.
- Flies, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'', no leash
- By myself, one foiler on the inside for the first 15 minutes, then 2 longboarders out for the last 10 minutes, othewise totally alone
- Waist- to chest-high, glassy, consistent-ish, not great angle meaning short first section on almost every wave
- Caught about 10+ waves, with all big ones closing out very quickly, and a few of the smaller ones nicely open.
- Caught 5 "waves" and went home.
- Flies, 9AM-10AM
- On my 9'2''
- By myself, 3-4 other people out
- Waist- to overhead, light winds, bad angle/shape, closing out 99% of the time across the whole spot
- Paddled out mostly for the workout, and was lucky to make it out to the line up super quickly
- Caught 4 waves, with only 2 to speak of, the others being instant closeouts. Spent most of the time way over toward the left.
- Baby seal in the line-up right next to me!
- Saw Eric and Jim on the shore after the session and we chatted for a bit. I don't think they paddled out after I left.
- Flies, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'2''
- By myself, between 5 and 8 other people out
- Chest- to overhead, moderate winds, consistent, decent shape but short sections
- Caught about 8 waves, with 2 really nice rights that stayed open. Others had a fun drop and first section that, typically, was pretty short.
- Caught 4 waves, with only 2 to speak of, the others being instant closeouts. Spent most of the time way over toward the left.
- Flies, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'', no leash
- By myself, 2 shortboarders inside, and then 2 bodyboarders inside.
- Waist- to head-high, consistent-ish, light to moderate trades
- Caught about 10 waves including a couple of pretty nice ones. Didn't have my leash, and ended up losing my board while turtling for a big wave. Had to swim all the way in, went back out for a nice last wave and got out, where I met Jim on the shore.
- Not too out of shape in spite of being sick for the last 2 weeks!
- Flies, 11AM-12AM
- On my 9'6''
- With Jim and Eric, nobody out at first and then 2 people out
- Waist- to head-high, consistent-ish, light to moderate trades
- Jim talked me into going back out with him (Eric joined us 25 minutes later), which I did.
- Caught about 5 waves. The first one was just beautiful, with no wind, and lined up. After that it went downhill with strengthening winds and rising tide. Struggle to catch a last wave due to being pretty tired.
- Flies, 9AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'', no leash
- By myself, alone at first and 2 shortboarders out later on
- Waist- to shoulder-high, not very consistent, moderate winds, but some sets, with the biggest ones closing out of course
- Caught 5 waves, with 2 nice ones. This was mostly an attempt to see if after being sick basically for 3 weeks I should try to get back in the water. I was soooo tired...
- Boneyard, 10AM-11:30AM
- On Dario's 9'6'' Webber
- With Dario, about 10 people out at first
- Knee- to waist-high, choppy, inconsistent, wind-swell
- Caught 3-4 waves, very hard to get into them due to the conditions and my not surfing for 2 months
- Went to Jaime's house after the session
- Sub, 6AM-8AM
- On Dario's 9'6'' Parallax
- With Dario and Travis, nobody else out
- Waist-high, glassy, not consisteny, and many non-breaking waves that looked like they were going to break
- Caught 5-6 waves, with a couple of decent ones given the conditions
- Stopped by People's after the session
- Boneyard, 6AM-8AM
- On Patrick's 9'6'' Hobie
- With Dario, nobody else out
- Waist-high, glassy, surprisingly consistent for most of the session, and relatively clean even though many waves were simply too soft
- Caught 10 waves with a couple of really fun rights that had a fast section
- Old Man, 6:30AM-8:30AM
- On Dario's 9'6'' Webber
- With Dario, Guy, Dave, Travis, Jaime
- Waist-high+, glassy, pretty consistent if very soft.
- Caught about 10 waves, with a super nice left on the outside that I split with Guy
- Dog Patch and then Old Man, 11AM-12:30PM
- On Dario's 9'6'' Webber
- With Dario, Guy, Dave, Travis, Jaime
- Waist-high+, almost glassy, consistent, a bit hard to catch.
- Caught about 10 waves, with a few fun rights.
- Toes, 9AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, nobody out
- Waist-high, blown out
- Caught 3 non-waves, and then paddled in. Paddled out just for the workout, and that's all I got :)
- Flies, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, up to 6 other people out
- Waist-high+, sort of consistent at first, longer lulls later, moderate winds
- Caught about 10 waves, with 2-3 really fun rights even though they were fading out ojn the inside due to the overall lack of energy.
- Toes, 8:30AM-10:15AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, up to 5 people out including Glenn
- Waist-high+, sort of consistent at first and then pretty lullish
- Caught about 6 waves, with 1 good left
- Flies, 8:30AM-10:15AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, nobody out
- Waist-high+, not very consistent and a bit weak, but getting better with dropping tide
- Caught 8 waves, with about 4 of them surprisingly fun and lined up
- Meant to go to Toes, but spaced out and missed the freeway ramp. So ended up at Flies on a dropping tide, which really wasn't too bad
- Two scuba divers out!
- Flies, 9AM-10:15AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, 3-4 people out
- Waist- to chest-high+, relatively consistent and getting better with the droping tide, light to moderate winds
- Caught ~8 waves, with 2-3 really fun rights
- One turtle on the outside
- Threes, 6:30AM-8:15AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- With Patrick, up to 10 people out
- Waist- to chest-high+, nicely shaped and consistent at first, less so at the end with the rising tide
- Caught 7-8 waves, with a couple of good rights and one fantastic right that had nice size and was beautifully lined up like waves can be at Threes...
- Flies, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- With Julien and Francois, up to 2 other people out
- Waist-high with occ. chest-high peaks, consistent-ish at first but then a long lull toward the end. Moderate winds.
- Caught 5-6 waves, with one or two good rights
- It was Julien and Francois first session
- Got stung on the thigh by a floating bee!
- Toes, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, up to 20 other people out (!!!), including Glenn
- Waist- to chest-high, consistent and glassy at first, and then longer and longer waits as the tide came in, plus wind starting at the end of the session
- Caught 5-6 waves, with one outstanding left, and a few others that didn't connect (or that I failed to connect)
- Flies, 9:30AM-11AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, about 8 other people out
- Waist- to chest-high, pretty inconsistent and weak due to the rising tide, but surprising sets coming through, almost glassy
- Caught 5-6 waves, with one outstanding right (given the conditions I guess) that I luckily was on the outside for. A lot of long waits though throughout the session. At some point I was just paddling around the whole spot just for the workout!
- I actually went to work at 8:30 since I had zoom meetings scheduled from 9AM until 12PM, knowing that the tide was good early on, but 9AM was cutting it too close. At about 8:35 I was told that all three meetings were canceled! So I worked for a bit, went back home, and went to Flies. The parking lot was FULL (which I guess happens now?), so I parked on the street (found a "dead" meter, so didn't have to pay!). A lot of hassle for a rising-tide weak-swell session, but all worth it due to that one great wave that came out of nowhere!
- Flies, 8:30AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, 2-3 other people out including Nico for a few minutes
- Waist-high+, really slow and inconsistent due to the high low tide, but a few sets of course, not with a great angle though. Glassy.
- Caught 5-6 waves with a decent right and another one to conclude the session. Had the tide been like a foot lower it would have been really good. Still not a bad session overall
- Grabbed the last free spot in the parking lot. What is going on????
- Flies, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, nobody out for the first 30min, and then one guy out
- Waist-high occ. chest-high, really slow due to the tide still being too high, glassy at first and the light winds.
- Caught 6-7 waves, with 3 decent-ish rights, in spite of the high tide. Decided to go on the dropping tide, but likely cut it too close to high tide as the swell hadn't filled in yet. Still caught some waves, but loooong waits.
- Flies, 8:30AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'2'' Morgan
- By myself, 3-4 other people out
- Waist-high occ. chest-high, extremely inconsistent, weak in spite of the dropping tide.
- Caught 6-7 waves, with 3 decent rights early on in the session (weirdly since the tide got lower later, but the waves sort of died)
- One turtle on the outside
- Flies, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'2'' Morgan
- By myself, 6-8 other people out, including Che
- Waist- to chest-high, consistent, light winds
- Caught 6-7 waves, with a few nice rights that stayed open
- Toward the end of the session, a life guard cam on a jetski to tell us that a 10ft Tiger had been seen at Concessions...
- Flies, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'2'' Morgan
- By myself, 1 other person out at most
- Waist- to shoulder-high, consistent but initially a bit weak due to tides, glassy at first and then light winds, last ten minutes were junky and weird
- Decided to come out at relatively high (but dropping) tide due to a swell coming in and it sort of paid ofd.. Caught about 10 waves, with 3-4 pretty nice rights. Pretty hard to make it around the inside section, but fun take-offs.
- Flies, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast, no leash
- With Francis (Colette on the short), nobody else out
- Waist-high, extremely weak and inconsistent, light winds
- Caught 4-5 "waves" that were super weak
- Towed Francis out to the line up and back for his first session
- Toes, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, about 15 people out at first, and then down to 3-4, and then alone for most of the rest of the session
- Knee to waist-high, glassy, consistent-ish but pretty weak
- Caught 10 waves, with nothing special
- Good to be in the water after almost 1.5 month without surfing due to weather, due to being too busy at work, and due to having burned my leg pretty badly with hot tea when my tea mug shattered while I was holding it!
- Toes, 8:30AM-10:15AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast, no leash
- By myself, about 10 people out at first, and then down to 3-4, pretty cloudy and cold
- Ankle-to knee-high, extremely inconsistent and weak
- Caught only 2 waves in total! The last one was decent-ish and just allowed me to go home