- Toes, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, about 10 people out including Glenn and Alex, glassy
- knee- to waist-high, pretty inconsistent and slow weak
- Caught only 2 waves due to being completely out of shape!
- Toes, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, about 5-6 people out including Glenn
- knee- to waist-high, consistent-ish, light winds
- Caught 5-6 waves, with only on really good left
- Big turtle in the line-up
- Toes, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- With Nodari, about 10 people out including Glenn
- knee- to occ. waist-high, not consistent and weak, perfectly glassy.
- Caught 5-6 waves with nothing really good. At least my last wave took me pretty far in
- Toes, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, nobody out
- Waist-high to occ. waist-high+, junky wind swell, consistent-ish but consistently junky, moderate winds
- Paddled out just for the workout, and because I had to go to Costco anyway
- Caught 2 non-waves and 1 pseudo-wave
- Flies, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast, no leash
- By myself, 1-2 people out, alone for a while
- Waist-high to occ. chest-high, junky and mixed up, not consistent, a lot of doubles and fakes, moderate winds
- Caught 6-7 waves, without one 2 "nice" ones really.
- Flies, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast, no leash
- With Max, nobody out
- Knee- to Waist-high, extremely weak and inconsistent, moderate winds
- Caught 5 waves, which was better than I expected
- Max's first session ever
- One big turtle on the inside that I had to go around!
- Flies, 9AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, nobody out but a foil stand-up on the inside, and 2 loagboarders out who went back in after 10 minutes
- Waist- to occ. chest-high, consistent-ish but a bit mixed up, light to moderate winds.
- Caught 5 waves, with a couple of decent rights that brought me to the stairs.
- First session after being sick again for 2 weeks. Pretty out of shape/tired.
- Flies, 9:30AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, 2-3 people out including Che
- Chest to overhead, consistent but a bit weird, light winds at first and moderate later
- Caught 5-6 waves, all really fun and pretty long
- Conditions radically changed halfway through the session, with bigger, messier, and many-wave sets coming through. Che got stuck on the inside for a looong time. Waves strated breaking pretty far outside. At some point I failed to punch through a big one and went over the falls, at which point I called it quit as I was already pretty tired.
- Waist- to occ. chest-high, consistent-ish but a bit mixed up, light to moderate winds.
- Caught 5 waves, with a couple of decent rights that brought me to the stairs.
- Flies, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'2'' Morgan
- By myself, 10 people out at first, and then down to 5
- Waist to chest, with occ. overhead sets, consistent-ish but oddly shifting and getting hard to get into waves toward the end
- Caught 5-6 waves, including 1 left, some pretty fun.
- Toward the end of the session some outstanding clean sets broke outside (was just able to get over them), and waves started to get much harder to catch. I finally caught a mid-size one that turned out to be absolutely great with many turns on a wall that never really closed out and brought me almost to the stairs.
- Still felt pretty tired about being sick and not surfing much, but getting there
- Big Left, 10AM-11AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- With Walter, nobody out
- Waist-high with some bigger sets, not consistent, moderate winds
- Caught 3 waves, none of them great but fun drops
- First time ever at Big Left, on a dying swell. Found it very difficult to drop down the face and I faled to cach many, many waves. Eventually caught a few (on the first one I basically had to jump on the nose to make it down the face).
- Will have to try it on another day when it's a bit better
- Flies, 9AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, nobody out
- Knee-high, barely breaking, light winds
- Caught 4 waves, with only the last one qualifying as a real wave
- Toes, 9AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, 2-3 people out
- Waist- to chest-high, consistent-ish, moderate winds and a bit choppy
- Caught 5 waves, including one right, and two really fun lefts that stayed nicely open
- Was super tired after not doing the Toes paddling for a while...
- Flies, 8:30AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, alone for the first half hour and then 2 people on the inside
- Waist- to chest-high, consistent-ish, moderate winds, weird angle, getting better and better as time went on
- Caught 6-7 waves, with two super nice rights toward the end of the session, even though due to the angle and died out on the inside
- Flies, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, up to 3-4 other people out at most, but basically always alone or at least alone near my peak
- Waist- to chest-high, consistent-ish, light winds, getting slower as tide went up
- Caught about 10 waves, with two super nice rights right at the beginning, and another one toward the end of the session. Overall a very nice session.
- Three police jetskis going through the inside and going toward Kewalo...
- Flies, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'2'' Morgan
- By myself, Nodari showing up later, Amy out there, between 10 and 15 other people out
- waist- to head-high, consistent-ish but weirdly slow and misshapened, most bigger waves closing out, most smaller ones impossible to catch, glassy
- Caught 4-5 waves, none of them good. After catching these waves, coming back to the line-up was a workout, caught many on the head. Overall, not a very fun session at all, but a great workout for sure. I guess I am finally in decent shape after what feels like 1.5 months of sinus issues.
- Saw Eric in the parking lot as I was about to leave, and we chatted for 15 minutes or so.
- Flies, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, nobody out
- waist-high occ+, relatively consistent but choppy and messy, still some ridable waves though
- Caught about 8-9 waves, with only 2 that would qualify as decent given the conditions
- Lost my board on a late takeoff on a sneak set, had to swim pretty far in to fetch it
- Challenging conditions really, but pretty happy that I made the best of it
- waist- to head-high, consistent-ish but weirdly slow and misshapened, most bigger waves closing out, most smaller ones impossible to catch, glassy
- Flies, 8:30AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez, no leash
- By myself, nobody out
- Waist-high occ++, very inconsistent and weak but for a few sets, moderate winds
- Caught 3 waves, with the last one decent, considering
- First session after 2 weeks of travel and 5 weeks of being sick in bed (covid, ear infection, the works). Really tired and weak, but still able to paddle and catch a few waves. So great being back in the water.
- Flies, 9:30AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'2'' Morgan
- By myself, 3 people out, and then only 1 (Tyler) for most of the session
- shoulder- to 3ft overhead-high, not very consistent, 95% closeouts, light winds
- Caught no waves really due to the conditions and being so out of shape, but getting there.
- Failed to get into most waves, which, to be honest, were challenging. Almost made it into one, but arms were like wet noodles
- Toward the end of the sesssion a massive set came by, and Tyler's leash broke! I was riding the white water inside anyway, and I fetched his board for him, end of session.
- The main point was to get a workout.... and that it was.
- Flies, 10:30AM-12AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, 2-3 people out, including Tracy and Eric by the end
- waist- to chest-high, inconsistent, nicely shaped, glassy to light winds
- Caught 6-7 waves, all of them pretty nice rights with either open faces or sections easy to get around. My first and last waves were by far the best.
- Talked to that guy I know but whose name I can never remembers, who's about to got to mexico for a surftrip, and to another guy who told us about his arrowing accident at pipe that kept him 1 year out of any physical activity (hip pile-driven into the reef)
- I caught a wave in but then saw Tracy paddling out, so I went out for a couple of waves, waiting for Eric to get to the line-up. Chatted for a while, caught a couple waves and called it a day
- Caught no waves really due to the conditions and being so out of shape, but getting there.
- Toes, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, 2 other people out
- waist-high, consistent-ish, moderate winds
- Caught 3 waves, including a decently nice left. Was super tired, still have to recoved from post-post-covid I guess.... But so great to be out.
- Flies, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, 10-15 people out
- waist-high+, not very consistent and a bit mixed up, light winds
- Caught three nice, lined-up, open rights and went home
- Caught 3 waves, including a decently nice left. Was super tired, still have to recoved from post-post-covid I guess.... But so great to be out.
- Flies, 9AM-11AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez (last session with that board!)
- By myself, 3-4 people out, including Eric at the end but I didn't get to actually talk to him
- waist- to chest-high, occ. head-high. Consistent, light winds
- Caught 7 waves, all of them pretty nice and open all the way in but for one. And my last wave was absolutely amazing interms of shape, openness and size, with the head-high peak and then such a nice wall all the way in, with everybody paddling out to get over it.
- While walking to the spot I realized my board was water logged, which I knew would be coming, and which explained the weird dampness of the sock over the last few weeks. It was really heavy, and paddled out for a last session on it. And it was a good one!
- Flies, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'2'' Morgan
- By myself, 10 people out, including Maria
- waist- to chest-high, not very consistent and a bit weird, light to moderate winds
- Caught 5-6 waves with 2-3 nice rights, but overall I surfed pretty poorly given the out-of-shapedness after traveling (and likely still some post-covid exhaustion), and surfing my 9'2''
- Toes, 8:30AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, 15 people out
- Waist-high+, consistent-ish, almost glassy
- Caught only 2 waves, both of them short rides because closing out
- Paddled out after being out of commission (again!) due to hurting by wrist. The worst part was taking the board in/out of the car :)
- Flies, 8:30AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, 7-10 people out
- Waist-high+, inconsistent and weak, light to moderate winds
- Caught only 2 waves, neither great. Sort of a blah session
- Toes, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, betwen 1 and 6 other people out, including Shermaine
- One turtle in the line-up
- Met Glenn, who was coming in, on my way out
- Waist-high, inconsistent, from light to moderate winds
- Caught about 8 waves, with most of them toward the end of the session while I was chatting with Shermaine, nothing too great.
- Flies, 8:30AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, up to 20 other people out, down to 4 at the end
- Waist- to shoulder-high, light to moderate winds, with a rain/wind spell throughout the sessions
- Swell was consistent-ish, but a lot of doubles, really hard to catch waves with bumps (tide still high-ish)
- Caught 4 waves with a super nice last one, but what a struggles to get waves today (also due to the initial crowd)
- Toes, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, nobody out.
- Waist-high+, moderate winds, messy and unorganized, consistent-ish but very shifty
- Caught 5 waves. More of an excuse for a good workout really today
- One turtle on the outside