- Toes, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, about 10 people out including Glenn and Alex, glassy
- knee- to waist-high, pretty inconsistent and slow weak
- Caught only 2 waves due to being completely out of shape!
- Toes, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, about 5-6 people out including Glenn
- knee- to waist-high, consistent-ish, light winds
- Caught 5-6 waves, with only on really good left
- Big turtle in the line-up
- Toes, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- With Nodari, about 10 people out including Glenn
- knee- to occ. waist-high, not consistent and weak, perfectly glassy.
- Caught 5-6 waves with nothing really good. At least my last wave took me pretty far in
- Toes, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, nobody out
- Waist-high to occ. waist-high+, junky wind swell, consistent-ish but consistently junky, moderate winds
- Paddled out just for the workout, and because I had to go to Costco anyway
- Caught 2 non-waves and 1 pseudo-wave
- Flies, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast, no leash
- By myself, 1-2 people out, alone for a while
- Waist-high to occ. chest-high, junky and mixed up, not consistent, a lot of doubles and fakes, moderate winds
- Caught 6-7 waves, without one 2 "nice" ones really.
- Flies, 9AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast, no leash
- With Max, nobody out
- Knee- to Waist-high, extremely weak and inconsistent, moderate winds
- Caught 5 waves, which was better than I expected
- Max's first session ever
- One big turtle on the inside that I had to go around!
- Flies, 9AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, nobody out but a foil stand-up on the inside, and 2 loagboarders out who went back in after 10 minutes
- Waist- to occ. chest-high, consistent-ish but a bit mixed up, light to moderate winds.
- Caught 5 waves, with a couple of decent rights that brought me to the stairs.
- First session after being sick again for 2 weeks. Pretty out of shape/tired.
- Flies, 9:30AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, 2-3 people out including Che
- Chest to overhead, consistent but a bit weird, light winds at first and moderate later
- Caught 5-6 waves, all really fun and pretty long
- Conditions radically changed halfway through the session, with bigger, messier, and many-wave sets coming through. Che got stuck on the inside for a looong time. Waves strated breaking pretty far outside. At some point I failed to punch through a big one and went over the falls, at which point I called it quit as I was already pretty tired.
- Waist- to occ. chest-high, consistent-ish but a bit mixed up, light to moderate winds.
- Caught 5 waves, with a couple of decent rights that brought me to the stairs.
- Flies, 8:30AM-10AM
- On my 9'2'' Morgan
- By myself, 10 people out at first, and then down to 5
- Waist to chest, with occ. overhead sets, consistent-ish but oddly shifting and getting hard to get into waves toward the end
- Caught 5-6 waves, including 1 left, some pretty fun.
- Toward the end of the session some outstanding clean sets broke outside (was just able to get over them), and waves started to get much harder to catch. I finally caught a mid-size one that turned out to be absolutely great with many turns on a wall that never really closed out and brought me almost to the stairs.
- Still felt pretty tired about being sick and not surfing much, but getting there
- Big Left, 10AM-11AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- With Walter, nobody out
- Waist-high with some bigger sets, not consistent, moderate winds
- Caught 3 waves, none of them great but fun drops
- First time ever at Big Left, on a dying swell. Found it very difficult to drop down the face and I faled to cach many, many waves. Eventually caught a few (on the first one I basically had to jump on the nose to make it down the face).
- Will have to try it on another day when it's a bit better
- Flies, 9:M-10AM
- On my 9'6'' Hernandez
- By myself, nobody out
- knee-high, barely breaking, light winds
- Caught 4 waves, with only the last one qualifying as a real wave