- Toes, 8:30AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, nobody out.
- Knee- to waist-high, choppy and messy (kona conditions).
- Caught 3 "waves" if you want to call them that.
- This session was an excuse to get back in the water before a trip to Costco after one month out of the water (but going swimming at the pool a lot). Good to see I was in pretty good shape.
- Toes, 8AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, 5-10 people out including Glenn.
- One turtle outside.
- Knee- to waist-high, glassy for the most part, extremely inconsistent and weak
- Caught 3 "waves", but really only one that would deserve the word
- Was nice being back in the water after more than 2 months without surfing due to bad weather, no waves, or swimming too much in the pool!
- Flies, 8AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, 2 other longboarders on the outside, a few shortboraders on the inside
- One monk seal on the inside.
- Waist-high, glassy, very inconsistent, but nice-ish (and smooth!) when coming through.
- Caught 5 waves, all of them pretty nice, two of which brought me all the way to the stairs. can't complain.
- Parking lot entrance was closed due to repaving, and I parked in a metered lot. Afterward I realized that I could've gotten in using another entrance that I didn't know existed!
- Flies, 9:45AM-11AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, 15-ish people out including Chris.
- Shoulder- to head-high+, somewhat consistent, several close-outs of course, light winds.
- Caught 4 waves, with two of them pretty nice. Nice to be back in the ocean. Noticed that swimming a lot, like I've been doing lately at the pool, really halpes with surfing stamina. I didn't feel tired at all, in spite of not surfing for 1 month!
- Flies, 9AM-10AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, 8 people out
- Shoulder- to head-high+, pretty consistent and nice.
- Caught two waves, the first one super nice.
- Incredibly out of shape, expectedly, and these were a bit too heavy conditions for a mellow getting back into surfing after 3 months off!! Missed several waves due to too weak paddling, etc.
- Flies, 1PM-3PM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, 2 people out
- shouldder- to head-high, pretty consistent but messy with wind and close-outs
- Caught three waves, with only one decent one.
- What a difficult session, being still so out of shape in conditions that weren't the easiest. I got caught inside on the paddle out, and it took me forever to reach the line-up (went harbor side!!). I was thus exhausted from the get go. Caught two waves and paddled back to the line-up more easily. Caught a non-wave in. All that swimming hasn't really prepared me for surfing it seems!
- Flies, 8:30AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, 10 people out
- Shoulder- to head-high, not very consistent and impacted by the still-high tide
- Caught 5 waves, with the first one very nice and the others being pretty much close outs after a fun drop and section