- Flies, 8:30AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, between 6 and 10 people out
- Waist- to chest-high, consistent-ish, nice shape
- Caught 8 waves, with two of them great, especially the last one, which was the biggest of the whole session and took me all the way in to the stairs
- First session in almost one year!! Due to my swimming three times of week for the last 6 months I was actually in pretty good shape and had a great session, without feeling tired at all.
- Saw a few people I knew (Jay, coming out as I was going in) and that younger guy whose name I always forget. A great session overall.
- Flies, 9:30AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, nobody out and then 2 people out for the last 15 minutes. Saw Che in the parking lot.
- Chest-high, occ head-high, consistent but odd and messy with a log of close-outs.
- Caught 4 waves, the first 3 being nice mid-range, able to go around the close-out first section.
- Got caught in the impact zone of a head-high set, and ended up losing my hat!
- Last session for this board, which is now fully delaminated and no longer water-tight.
- Flies, 9AM-10AM
- On my 9'2'' Morgan
- By myself, only 2 people out, Jeannie and that guy I see often but whose name I don't know, alone for the last 20 minutes.
- waist- to chest-, not very consistent but some open-ish faces
- Caught 6 waves, with 3 of them quite nice, possible to get around the first crumbly.
- At some point Jeannie lost her fin and had to paddle back in!