- Flies, 8:30AM-9:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, between 6 and 10 people out
- Waist- to chest-high, consistent-ish, nice shape
- Caught 8 waves, with two of them great, especially the last one, which was the biggest of the whole session and took me all the way in to the stairs
- First session in almost one year!! Due to my swimming three times of week for the last 6 months I was actually in pretty good shape and had a great session, without feeling tired at all.
- Saw a few people I knew (Jay, coming out as I was going in) and that younger guy whose name I always forget. A great session overall.
- Flies, 9:30AM-10:30AM
- On my 9'6'' South Coast
- By myself, nobody out and then 2 people out for the last 15 minutes. Saw Che in the parking lot.
- Chest-high, occ head-high, consistent but odd and messy with a log of close-outs.
- Caught 4 waves, the first 3 being nice mid-range, able to go around the close-out first section.
- Got caught in the impact zone of a head-high set, and ended up losing my hat!
- Last session for this board, which is now fully delaminated and no longer water-tight.
- Flies, 9AM-10AM
- On my 9'2'' Morgan
- By myself, only 2 people out, Jeannie and that guy I see often but whose name I don't know, alone for the last 20 minutes.
- waist- to chest-high, not very consistent but some open-ish faces
- Caught 6 waves, with 3 of them quite nice, possible to get around the first crumbly.
- At some point Jeannie lost her fin and had to paddle back in!
- Boneyard, 5:30AM-7AM
- On Dario's 9'6'' Parallax
- With Dario, nobody else at our peak
- waist-high+, pretty terrible conditions overall (mixzed up, inconsistent, not glassy)
- Caught 3-4 non-waves
- Boneyard, 5:30AM-7AM
- On Dario's 9'6'' Webber and then 9'6'' Parallax
- With Dario and Travis, one (ripping) shortboarder at our peak
- Much better than yesterdasy, more consistent (but still any doubles)
- Caught 5-6 waves, with a couple of descent ones
- Boneyard, 5:30AM-7:30AM
- On Dario's 9'6'' Parallax
- With Dario, a few people out here and there
- Shoulder- occ. head-high, glassy, really unorganized wind swell though, very hard to read
- Caught 5-6 waves, with a couple of decent ones, but kicked out early because the paddle back from the inside was horrendous. Dario got stuck inside twice 20+ minutes each time, and no way I was doing that.
- On my last wave in, I took off on a totally unmakable wave and ate it big time, stuck underwater for a pretty long time with the board tombstoning (as Dario say it), and after catching on breath before the next wave my leash wrapped around my ankles.... so yeah.
- Walking to the spot was sketchy due to high tide, and so was walking back. On the way back I actually fell due to slipping on a rock. Luckily, didn't damage the board, but will likely get a massive bruise on my backside. yikes.
- Flies, 9AM-10AM
- On my 9'2'' Morgan
- By myself, almost nobody out but for a father-and-daughter on one board and the brother on a short-board, all on the inside (which was a good idea)
- Waist-high+, light winds, many doubles and non-breaking waves
- Caught 3 waves, with the first and third pretty decent, but I must have paddled for dozens of waves that I didn't catch as they were flattening out
- On Dario's 9'6'' Parallax
- With Dario, a few people out here and there